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Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod. The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery. You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately. Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode. For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner. Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery. The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode) In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer. Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer. Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist) The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts = 13.5 Amps. The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts. We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient. The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series. At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts. So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries. I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod. Watts you have it set to makes the difference. *most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long.

So I am digging my new (ish) Youde Zephyrus V2 tank! Holy cow they made some nice improvements to this gem and I loved the first version. They improved the top fill design so you don't have to twist off the top and unplug that little rubber deal. Now, you just twist the top 90 deg and fill and you're good to go. Also, they have provided a plug that allows you to use in single coil mode which means it is now suitable for TC mode and that is fantastic. They also totally redesigned the wicking ports and it is much easier to wick and soaks up juice like a sponge. This thing is a juice hog but oh so good. I'm getting a couple more.

Watts/Volts - they are a product of each other. If you adjust one, you are automatically adjusting the other. You do not set them independently of each other. Everybody has slightly ddifferent settings they prefer. There is no magic number. It's kind of like driving a car - some people go 25 in a 30 and some people go 35 in a 30. At 15W you're probably doing 40 in a 25. Try adjusting it to taste and go from there. And remember, if you're doing 40 in a 25 you adjust your budget for tickets.

Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine! You are correct. I was trying to keep it simple. However, resistance does matter. Simply put, if you leave the wattage the same and change coil resistance you will have an unsatisfactory vape. Say you have a 0.5 ohm coil (24 ga Kanthal, 1/8" ID) running at 30 Watts. Steam-Engine shows a Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2. Now change the resistance to 1.2 ohms. Steam-Engine now shows a Heat Flux of 110 mW/mm^2. To get the same Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2 you have to change the wattage to 72 Watts. Therefore, with everything unchanged except the resistance (# of wraps) you will have to change the wattage by 42 watts to get the same Heat Flux. Granted, this only addresses the temperature of the vape and due to the increased number of wraps you will have greater surface area contact with the wicking which will increase the amount of vapor being produced. The simple point I am trying to make is that resistance does matter significantly, as well as a number of other factors. A person can go as deep into it as they want. It's a great hobby as well as a great alternative to analog smokes. It really comes down to finding your personal preference. As you continue to vape your preference may change (well, mine did as well as a multitude of other Vapers). My suggestions are based upon my journey and trying to recommend something that would minimize potential future purchases and provide a satisfying vaping experience for the longest time possible. With all that's been said, the OP may find that getting an Aspire Nautilus tank would be all that's needed to get a satisfying vape with their 20 Watt Mod... for now. I still have one myself and still use it ocasionally, although I've increased the air flow by drilling the largest air intake hole larger as well as drilling the coil positive pin air flow larger as well. The OP was asking about a tank that had greater vapor production... it would help if we knew what they had right now. I may have missed it but I don't recall the OP ever saying. All I know is that the OP has a 20 Watt istick Mod that they aren't thrilled with.

Welcome to Vapor Talk! With the VTC mini you need to click the fire button 3 times and select the proper mode. If you want to use Power Mode, use the right button to select POWER. Start quite a bit lower than you think you need and go up until you are happy with the vape, but not tasting anything burnt. If you are running it in TC mode, start with a cool atomizer, the click the fire button 3 times, use the right button until you get to SS316. While it is flashing click the left button to go to the PWR set it for something around 25watts. Click the left button one more time and then the right one to lock the resistance. Then hit the fire button. Turn the temp up to about 300F or so and try it. If it is too hot turn it down, too cold turn it up. You may have to go back and turn the PWR up if it will not reach the temp, if it is going into temp control too fast, turn the PWR down. I am sure that is clear as mud, but basically start low and work your way up, then keep asking questions and we will try to help you get it where you need it!

Those coils are SS316 you can use them in TC if you have a SS TC setting or you can use them in power mode. I'm not familiar with that mod so maybe someone will show up that has one and give you more info.

wow thats crazy. i didnt know they would last that short. i thought it usually lasts a day, but i guess the resistance is a big part in it to then

As far as Mods go, if you don't mind the size I would suggest that you have a look at the Wismec Reuleaux RX200. You can find them for around $40-$45. They are a 200 Watt 3-18650 battery Mod. For any regulated Mod I would recommend Samsung 18650 25R5s (~$5 ea.), get a set of them for the Mod and another set to have charged and ready to swap out. You should also pick up a 18650 4-bay charger (~$30). Another Mod I like is the Joyetech Cuboid 150 or 200 (2-18650s). Both Mods will cover you well for nearly any Temperature Control (TC) and Wattage Vaping as you go foreward. My tank preferences have advanced but you could go for an Aspire Nautilus (tighter draw, less air flow) for around $28. I like direct lung with easy unrestricted draw so I like FreeMax Starre Pro tank (they come with TC, Ni200, coils only so if you want straight wattage you will have to buy some Kanthal coils). Vapeston Magnus is also a good tank. I also have some Aspire Atlantis tanks as well.

I finally got a few more flavors. I can't wait until I have time to try them out!