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We frequently get asked, "What's the best..." from new members / new vapers on this forum. "Best" is a very subjective thing in the world of vaping. What's best for one person will not work for another. Yet, despite us saying this over and over and over again... we still get asked the same questions. What's the best battery? What's the best mod? What's the best tank? What's the best beginner's kit? Let's have a discussion. What's the best for YOU and why is it the best? Okay... go!

I think you may like it. We have almost the same taste in vaping gear.

YAY, I'll start this off Best battery - for me would be the Samsung 25R (blue or green). They are cheaper than the other "premium" batteries, test to 20A continuous discharge, and last all day @ 2500mAh. My next choice is the LG HE2 or HG2... price and performance are great, but the Samsung are usually cheaper. Best MOD - That's a toss up for me... I prefer the Cloupor Mini (30W) and Mini Plus (50W-TC) for function, size and reliability, but I also dearly love my IPV-minis (V1 and V2), as well as the Wismec Presa 40W (for built-in battery) and the 75W-TC (size and it just works) Best Tank - I've got a few... Subtank Mini is a workhorse with plenty of available coil resistances and an RBA deck, so I'd say it's the best all-around tank you can get for under $30. I also like the Triton V2 for the same reasons as the subtank mini, but coils don't last as long. For starter and portable (okay if I lose it) tanks, I really love the Kanger AeroTank (V1 or V2 with V3 air-flow control bases) and KPT3-mini (lots of BDC coils out there in different resistances). For more advanced flavor and control... I can't praise The Russian 91% enough, but they are pricey and not for the novice! The Aspire Nautilus gets points from me, but not my favorite, but the SO swears by them, and regularly uses two in rotation. Best beginner kit - My #1 pick would be the 50W Kanger SubTank Mini kit. #2 would be the 75W-TC Kanger Top-tank mini kit. From there, the Subbox nano kit, SubVod kit, and Nebox all are good starters. EVic are good looking (but I don't own one), and the Aspire Pegasus kits with Triton, Triton mini, or a Nautilus are always a good starter too!

Vape gear can be very confusing to new vapers. I was when I first started. Even though I did some research online (not on any forums, just googled starter kits), I felt that I could have made a better choice. For anyone looking into vaping, I would recommend going into a vape shop and see which ones feel right to you. Below is just an abridged version of different types of mods and atomzers. Pros and cons on each are not covered, and neither is safety nor battery info. I think we have stickies for that, if it is a tad dated just ask as plenty of helpful and knowledgeable folks here. Cigalikes - These are the ones commonly found in gas stations and convenience stores. As the name implies, this mimics a cigarrette in appearance and size. They come in both disposable and rechargeable variety. These are closed-end systems which means you have to buy pre-filled carto for juice. Vape Pens - These are the bigger cousin of cigalikes and commonly called ego batteries. Some have variable voltage although limited. It is paired with disposable clearomizers with ego threading just like CE4, CE5, etc. There are also clearomizers where you only replace the coils just like Evods, Aerotank, protank, etc Mechanical Mods - These are simple devices that gives you a more customizable experience compared those mentioned above, but requires good knowledge of Ohms Law and battery safety. In short, the atomizer resistance you use dicates how much power you draw from your battery cell. They also come in tube or box configuration. Usually used by intermediate vapers. APV (advanced personal vaporizer) Mods - These have at least one or more of the following features - Variable Voltage (VV), Variable Wattage (VW), and Temperature Control (TC), and they also come in both tube and box type mods. Some have built-in batteries, and others have replaceable Li-ion/Li-Po batteries. Variable Voltage - Just like a mech mod where the resistance dictates the power draw on your battery cell but now you can set the voltage to fine tune how much power you are drawing consistently. The range of voltage you can choose from depends on the circuitry of your mod. For example, if using 1.8 ohm atomizer @ 3.7 gives you 6.8 W. The same resistance @ 4.2 gives you almost 10W Variable Wattage - The circuity allows you to choose from a range of wattage rgardless of what resistance you are using. The mod circuitry adjusts the voltage accordingly for you to reach the desired wattage. Temperature Control - This is the newest evolution in vaping. As the name implies, the mod controls the power draw once the set temperature is reached. This is achieved by using special reisitance wires like Ni200 (Nickel), Titanium (T101), and Stainless Steel wires. Atomizers - come in both open-end and closed systems, and can be very confusing. Cartomizers - I will only refer to the ones used in cigalikes. These are pre-filled with usually 1-2ml of e-liquid, and disposable when it runs out. Clearomizers - You have disposable and replaceable stock coil and wick variety. CE4, CE5, etc are disposable kind. These are ego threaded and meant for ego mods but can be used with 510 threaded mods with an adapter. Nautilus and Kanger aerotank, protank, etc have replaceable stock coils. However, some categorize sub-ohm tanks as clearomizers also. I do not know why. But I think anything that has a replaceable stock coils is a clearomizer (and the disposable too). All else can be can be categorized in RBA (Rebuildable Atomizers). RBA - Anything that does not use a stock coil. You build and wick it yourself. Under this category you will hear/read about RDA, RTA, Genisys and RDTA. RDA ( Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer) - An atomizer where you drip the liquid onto the coils directly. RTA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer) - Just like an RDA but it has a tank or resevoir that holds e-liquid, and it is refillable either from the top, side or bottom. RDTA (Rebuildable Dripping Tank atomizer) - In essence, it is RDA with a reservoir. Earlier versions of it has spring mechanism that when pressed feeds tiny amount of liquid onto the coils or the deck where the wick feeds from. Newer generation of RDTA has no need of lever mechanism to release liquid. I do not know how to explain it haha. In short, some sort of gravity/pressure feed. I am sure I missed a few things so please feel free to add or correct any mistakes.

Most of us on this forum use vaping as a means to get off cigarettes. While we believe that vaping is less harmful than smoking tobacco, there are no long term studies that have proven research that conclude vaping is safe. If you still want to take the risk, then I would encourage you to start reading threads on this forum to gain information about vaping, different tanks, coils, coil resistance, PG/VG ratios for different vapor output, heat output, watts/volts, different metals and wires, battery safety, amps, etc. There is much to learn in vaping. We stress safety. Always.

Will you be buying locally from a B&M shop or online? If online, check out the starter-kit offerings form sweet-vapes.com, 101vape.com, vapenw.com, vapordna.com, gearbest.com (try to select their US warehouse, or you'll be waiting a while for arrival), and any of the vendors listed here on the forum, INCLUDING the Vapor Talk store...

Not mad at all... I didn't mean to sound that way... just pointing out that this could be perceived as spam/trolling by the admins since you've not chimed back in on the existing thread that has answers... Feel free to post as many questions as you like, but no need to post the same question multiple times... members are more than happy to respond, but sometimes it may take a day or two for everyone to weigh-in with their suggestions/opinions.

Not knocking it, because I've never tried one... but it always strikes me as funny when the description lists "Internal 4500mAh Battery" and "Protection: Reverse Battery..." and my personal favorites... "Adjustable Power Output from 7-100 Watts" in the first line... and the next to the last lists "Can adjust from 7-50 watts" I find contradictions a red-flag in the QC department if they can't even get their spec-sheet correct...

How many more times you gonna ask this question without a response the ones you've already opened? Your other thread is generating some good answers to this same question...