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In an unregulated MOD, Ohm's Law is the only way it works, lol... Coil resistance and battery voltage determine the Wattage (output) and Amp-draw. A 0.2 Ohm coil fired at 4.1V (fully charged single battery or two batteries in parallel-mode) will draw 20.5A (minimum) and output 84W. This is safe as long as your battery (or batteries) are good batteries and rated 20A, like the Samsung 25R, Sony VTC4, or LG HE2/HG2. Now, in series, two batteries are capable of double Voltage (8.2V), so at that power level, the Amp draw will be 41A and 336W of output at the coil Your batteries won't handle that load, and @ 336W, neither will your lungs In a Mech MOD, there's now way to "dial it down" either... It's either full on, or full off, and the Wattage is solely determined by the coil's resistance and the Voltage provided by the battery/batteries! A regulated box MOD will make your vape more consistent and controllable, than dealing with the constant Voltage drop of a draining battery in a Mech MOD. I don't own either of the two regulated MODs you mentioned, but I've heard many positive things about the Wismec rx200. @jasonculp will be along shortly to give you more info on larger box-mods like the rx200. Let me add in this as well... Wattage ratings stamped on the factory coils mean very little... I frequently use a coil stamped 30-60W (for example) at a "comfortable" vaping range around 16-18W... to me, cranking it up to even 20W gives me a burnt taste, so you MUST also consider what your juice can handle... As I like to say... just because your car's speedometer registers 150mph, doesn't mean you HAVE to pull out of your driveway at 150mph!!

When the Kanger Subtank mini came out, their 1.5 Ohm coils were "meh" to me (and their 0.5 Ohm were horrid)... but I have noticed that their horizontal coils have gotten better since they came out with the vertical coils. Either that, or the vertical coils are so bad (poor wicking, low flavor, and don't last long) that the horizontal ones "seem" better? I will agree that the Triton's coils appear to have gotten worse over time... the last batch I bought barely last 4 tank-fulls before they are toast, and the ones I bought months ago last 10+ tanks, and have better flavor through their life... so yeah, I kinda have to agree

I hear you. I switched to RTAs/subohm tanks for that very reason. Coil wattage are guidelines. With Kanger Subtanks, even though some of their coils say can run up to 30W, I can't run it that high. I usually stay within 18-23W on stock coil. I am not familiar with arctic and herakles coils, and their recommended wattage range. But, if you choose a conservative resistance coil, run it in parralel rather than series, and most importantly know the limitations of your batteries, you will be fine. I am sure that our resident battery experts (jasonculp and earthling) will chime in, and give you more precise and detailed info. For example, I would not run a TFV4 0.15 ohm quad coil in 7.4V series configuration. I find more control with a purely variable voltage mod like Hexohm series.

I have had my share of bad coils lol. What I noticed, when a new tank comes out their stock coils are great. But after a few months it seems that QC goes down hill... and that is with every subohm tank I tried. That is why I stick with the RBA, and just have stock coils handy when I cannot be bothered with rebuilding. Anyone else notice that, or is it just me?

You are both correct. The problem is with the Crown. It has so much airflow I can not get a warm vape with 1.2 ohm coils. In fact with the airflow open only a fraction it is not a good vape. The .5 coils are better but in the 50+ watt range he is running the .25 shines. It says it is for 80 to 100 watts, but with my juice 60 is pushing it. The funny thing is the Crown is cooler at 55 watts than my NEBOX at 35, so it has to be the airflow. (of course the Crown is putting out 2 to 3 times the vapor) It is defiantly a cloud producing tank. I only use mine at home, and as a backup, but it is by far my favorite tank!

^^ This ^^ I've tried coils built down to 0.1 (Kanthal), and I must say, these days, I prefer 0.8 Ohm as the lowest I can tolerate... 1.2-1.5 is my sweet-spot for flavor, which is what I'm after... not trying to be a freight-train, lol