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Cany if you like uncomplicated you would like the Kanger 75w TC mod. In power mode you adjust the watts, and in TC mode the only thing that is adjustable is the temperature. When you put a tank on it you will be asked whether its a different coil, just push the yes button or the no button. The only user error I can see happening is to pick the wrong mode for the coil you are using.

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40mm don't leave you enough to build a coil, I had 83mm between welds. I wonder if the Kanger Clapton coils use NR leads welded on? I would dissect mine but plan on trying it some day.

Yes mine had non resistance leads welded on, but I cut them off like you did. I sent Kanger another e-mail but not holding my breath for a answer. When I used the wire to build a coil and used steam engine the result matched predictions within 0.01 ohms using 26g 316L or 317L looks like I might have been wrong on guessing they used 304. one difference is I had 83mm between welds, they probably used a lighter gauge in your coil.

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Was your wire welded? There is quite a bit of difference in the properties between the legs and coil on mine. I cut mine at the welds and just measured the resistance of the "coil" wire. I am like you and think it has to be SS of some type. I measured my resistance in a simular way. I did it on a Velocity deck in a single loop. All I had handy to check it was the building ohm meter. I had 5 or 6 digital TC mods within arms reach...but didn't think to try one I normally measure bearings and gaskets....lol bearings are generally a standard size and the caliper works fine. On gaskets if we can get witing a 32nd we are doing pretty good! Heck I use a stainless steel pocket rule for most of my stuff.