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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/25/2016 in all areas

  1. Heat in the center of the tube could be the battery, and could also be dirty threads... dirt and corrosion add resistance. Take it apart, clean it well, inside and out... clean the threads with a stiff brush (toothbrush, wire-brush, etc.), and use a good metal polish/cleaner on the entire MOD. Lubricate the threads with a low-resistance anti-seize compound... or use a tiny bit of Vaseline if you have nothing else for the threads. If it still heats up after that, the battery is the most likely cause. Either get a better battery, or build your coils to a higher resistance so the Amp draw is less!
    1 point
  2. O.22Ohms @ 4.1V is 18.6A... @ 4.2V is 19.1A... (and this is assuming zero-loss of power across the MOD, which is not possible, so add a couple Amps to the overhead). The VTC5 is only rated to 20A continuous discharge (<100C), and most tests I've seen rate them lower than this. For proven 20A performance, I'd look at the Samsung 25R or the VTC4. Both are proven to perform consistently at 20A, with a margin of safety for higher loads... and the Samsung can usually be found for about half the price of the Sony, even on the Liion site! If you're not exceeding 20A with your coil, then your Nemesis Fire-button spring is likely the culprit (heating up like a coil as you make contact). I would suggest upgrading to magnetic fire-button connection, or at the very least, upgrading to a heavier spring. Also, be sure to clean ALL the threading and the components of the fire-button. Dirt can also create a situation where heat is generated.
    1 point
  3. I finally got my Fishbone + RDA from China yesterday. I guess a month in transit for a sub-$20 RDA that performs as well as this one does ain't too bad. Right now I'm vaping Wastegate by Boosted (Raspberry Cheesecake and Vanilla Ice Cream) and it absolutely tastes more intense now than it ever has. The Fishbone + has a triple-helix airflow design that provides exceptionally smooth pulls for a direct-lunger, too. It's nice to be able to see inside my dripper. I built it with a single .16Ω 2.5mm Ni200 horizontal coil between it's Velocity-styled posts.
    1 point
  4. I loved the Triton V1, after I got a new tank for it... the original would lock-up juice-flow The V2 Triton is better IMO because of the abitlity to take it apart and replace the glass if it breaks, lol... The only complaints I have on the whole system is the coils don't last nearly as long as I feel they should, and the top-cap threading on some of them is sub-par. Fortunately, the top-cap on mine is pristine, but the coils sometimes don't last more than 4-5 tankfuls before they get too tight to draw or lose flavor... some go 10 tanks... so there is no consistency
    1 point
  5. Today, I received 4 packs of Horizontal SubTank coils from Sweet-Vapes (I think they taste better, and they're so easy to re-wick to make them last longer), as well as two ST RBA's (one original, one plus), and something interesting... They had Pyrex ST Bell Caps (with frosted drip-tip) for $5 on sale, and ST air-flow bases for $7, so now I have an all-Pyrex SubTank for 1/3 the price of a "real" SubTank Mini I think it looks kinda sweet on my Cloupor Mini! I'll probably only use this at the house, for fear of dropping/breaking it, but it looks really good... Next time I order from S-V, I may pick up a couple more caps and bases... the Bell Cap only has option for SS connection, but I think it would still look good with a black base?
    1 point
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