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The Sigelei 150tc is a 150w dual 18650 device capable of Wattage mode and Joule(temp control) mode.Wattage on this device ranges from 10w-150w.Joule mode ranges from 10j-100j.Output voltage is 1.0v-7.5v and input voltage is 6.4v-8.4v.Temp ranges from 100-300 degrees •C/212-572•F.Atomizer resistance is 0.1ohms - 3.0ohms.Max current is 35A.Dimensions are 103x57x25mm and weighs 190g.Low voltage protection,Low resistance protection,input high voltage warning,Output short circuit protection,reverse battery protection,Overheating prevention as well.The texture on the Sigelei 150TC is really nice with a rubbery type feel.proper battery venting.Buttons are nice and clicky.Nice bright screen displays all the info you need,ohms,voltage,wattage and battery life.Spring loaded 510 everything I have put on this has sat nice and flush.It did come with a clear silicone sleeve also.The only con I have found with this device is the battery door.Although they are held on by magnets they aren't strong enough to keep it on the device very well so unintentionally the door can come off if you don't use the silicone sleeve.Besides that it works very well and does what it advertises.My honest opinions on this device are good but not amazing .i would give this a 7 out of 10 rating IMO.Thanks guys! Go check out GearBest's subforum on the main VaporTalk page! This was sent to me from GearBest for the purposes of this review.

I am with you on this one. For tinkering, DNA200 mod is real pleasure to play with. But I find myself wanting to play more with different types of wires, and fooling around with escribe. In that regard, it is really, really worth it. Having realized that I spent more time tinkering, rather than savoring my vape, I sold mine and got several mods instead ( Cuboid, evic VTC minis, Hexohm V3 clone, and RX200s). Big part of that decision is preparation for vapocalypse, in case it happens for real this time. But hey, if vapocalypse turns out to be just like the Mayan calendar prediction , I am all set for gear for a long while. I can then revisit DNA, or be highly selective on newer gear.

Comp for the win! The Atlantis 2 can use the same coil as the Aspire Triton 2, which comes in a 1.8 ohm coil option. Just a thought.

The rx200 is the generic knock off version of the dna 200. Currently it supports nickel titanium and stainless steel, but which types idk The dna 200 IMHO is def worrh it and i just got my first one. I have an rx200 but i am about to sell it and get another dna 200!

It sounds like your coil is to low of an OHM rating for the device. The Cool Fire is only rated for a coil down to 1.2 OHMs. What OHM coil are you using? Edit: This is where I found the OHM cut off for the device: http://vapingcheap.com/innokin-cool-fire-1-review/ Quote From Review: I could not find any specs for the Cool Fire I which indicated its minimum firing resistance however, I doubt that his device would fire anything lower than 1.2 ohms. I did use the Cool Fire with a 1.2 ohm rebuildable atomizer and it did fire, although I found that I experienced a better vape with the iClear 30S.

Me either. Well actually my budget balances out just nearly perfect....I spend everything I make....

I really don't know. I have never used a DNA200. I have talked to a few people who feel it it not worth the price difference, and few that say it is worth it. For me, at this time, it is not worth the price. I am trying to load up on spares. I can buy 3 evic VTC mini's for the price of one DNA mod. If Vapocalypse happens, I would rather have 3 mods than one. I personally don't see myself ever needing more than 50 - 60 watts (I have been stuck at 40 for many months) but I got the RX200 just in case.

I think you meant VG not PG But I do agree that you need to up the flavoring when buying a high VG juice. It is more easily done when making your own. I don't like adding water to juice because it really cuts the vapor production. I would not use lemon juice from a store. it contains preservatives that are toxic when vaporized.

Those that blow themselves up are usually using inferior batteries, defective mechanicals, or running resistances (Ohms) far below the ratings of their battery. These are things the media leave out... they just play the blame-game on those evil e-cigs... [shakes head] Mechanicals are safe, as long as you know what you are doing and use good equipment, the right way... that being said, even a regulated mod can have issues... poor chipsets, batteries, or just stupidity by the operator... This is why we always preach about battery safety and knowing what your device can and will do. Don't let the media scare you... the media no longer reports the news or public-services... they are interested in ratings and awards, agenda pushing, and fear-mongering...

Based on what you posted, a can of snuff/dip is basically equivalent to a pack of cigarettes (full-flavor, unfiltered)... or two packs of filtered "lights". I would suggest simple to get you started... A Kanger ProTank 2, Kanger Aerotank V2, Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, or AnyVape Davide. Coils are cheap for these, and they WORK! As for a battery device... simple is best, so I would suggest an iStick 50W, not for the power, but for the longevity of the battery. The Wismec Presa 40W (not the TC model) is also tops on my list... Next would be an MVP-series battery. As for a stick-style, you cannot beat the iTaste CLK, Vision Spinner V1, or a similar Variable-voltage device from Kanger or Smok. Based on your daily nicotine from dipping, I would suggest you start with one of the tanks above, a coil in the 1.5-1.8 Ohm resistance range, and probably an 18mg nicotine level. You can go higher or lower, based on your needs, but that will be a good starting point. Find a flavor you like, and vape as often as you feel the need