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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2015 in all areas

  1. You know it really bothers me the whole "China bad, 'Merica good." I'm going to be devil's advocate here and say that not all US liquid makers are exempt here. If I recall correctly 5 Pawns had an issues with Diacetyl in their eliquid not to long ago. (And I recall some members on the forum avidly supporting their quality) This isn't a shot at 5 pawns, I'm sure they've corrected the issue by now, but the point is, we should take every study seriously and not simply dismiss it because it's "probably Chinese e liquid." While there are some top notch US liquid makers, you're naive if you really think China goes out of there way to produce low quality liquid. Sure some manufacturers might, but not all. (The same can be said equally for here in the US) I've visited a number of local retailers across the country some of which carry some seriously shady e liquids. I've seen Dekang facility first hand for example and it's not some shoddy warehouse pumping out liquid it's a literally a multi million dollar state of the art facility. (They make some serious quarterly profits and they have the capital to invest) Some US liquid makers are mixing in the rear of their retail store. While "of course we don't use Diacetyl" might be enough for some people, why do we extend so much trust and leeway to US manufactures? (or any manufacture for that matter) I remember talking to a vaper who was loyal to X brand of e liquid because it's "safer than that Chinese ****" and I asked him, have you ever requested a breakdown report? Do they have monograph reports up on their website? At the very least are they mixing in an ISO certified clean room? The guy didn't have an answer and neither do most vapers. They just jump on the US bandwagon and say I vape this because I know it's safer. Thing is, back when us old timers started their was legitimate concern over Chinese e liquids. It was the only source for e liquid at one point and because of trade secrets, very little information about how this stuff was produced. These days most manufactures worth their salt have no issue posting lab reports online along with at least some kind of certification. There is an e-liquid manufacturer on the east coast that I'm currently under an NDA with but they perform testing on 3rd party e liquids. While some of them passed free and clear for Diacetyl they failed for heavy metal traces. Others passed heavy metal tests but were shown positive for trade amounts of Diacetyl or Diethylene glycol. It was eye opening to see some of the reports. I'd asked why they don't display these reports online and because they themselves produce eliquid have been advised against it for legal reasons. But I can tell you, not all US liquids are as "clean" as you might believe them to be. (Same goes for other countries as well) Late last year I attended a conference with some of the top manufactures in China and do you know what it was about? Safety. It was ensuring their liquid was free of unnecessary additives as well as ensuring the purity of their liquids before shipping out across the world. They were also working with some well known testing facilities out of Europe prior to TPD rearing it's head. I'm not saying you should choose one country over another or that China has liquid superior to US manufactures, I'm simply saying that spouting off that US liquid is good, China is bad is a really lumping some good manufactures in with a couple of shady ones. It's really no different here in the states with some brands mixing this stuff in the basement of their own homes. Whatever liquid you're vaping, you should go ahead and email your vendor and ask them for reports. I say hold every brand accountable. Ask if they have reports for Nicotine level verification, Diacetyl, Diethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol, heavy metals, HPHC analysis and see how many of them produce results. I'm not voting for a nanny state here, I'm simply saying that some of this liquid costs 20-30 bucks a bottle and if you ask me, someone damn well better be investing some of those high costs in ensuring we have safe, clean e liquid. otherwise what's the point of switching to vaping other than less of a smell. I also don't think you should simply be confident in the brand you're using because it was "made in the USA."
    3 points
  2. First red-flag... HARVARD... Second red-flag... Acronyms associated with Big-pharma/Big-tobacco/Big-government I trust no studies that are subsidized by tax-dollars or pharma/tobacco $$, especially those performed by liberal lap-dog universities...
    3 points
  3. hotrod351

    65 and start vaping

    im 65 and finally got fed up with breathing in smoke and throwing my money away on cigarettes. ive been looking at the commercials on e-cigs for years but = do they work or not ? well two weeks ago, on my way home form visiting my wife of 40+ years having a quadruple bypass, so i stopped and bout a itaste vv v3.0, couldn't believe how good this thing worked. i mean since i bought it ive only had maybe one cig every other day. my cig sit with next to where my e-cig sits and i dont even think about having a cig. unbelievable, best thing i ever did. when i realized that the vaping was the thing for me i picked up a itaste 134 mini for the home and use the itaste vv v3.0 for when i go somewhere. still amazed on how great these things work for getting off cigs.
    1 point
  4. hotrod351

    65 and start vaping

    done deal. have two extra iclear x.1, each having two extra coils, two itaste vv v3.0's, and a MVP 2.0. has for batteries, i have two 18500's and two 18350's, all Efest. the MVP 2.0 and one of the itaste vv v3.0 is for the wife and the 134 mini and one of the vv v3.0's is for me. right now i feel the vv v3.0 is the easiest to use, light weight and love it. the 134 mini is good but bulky and heavy, cant imagine the 134 regular, must weigh a ton. looked at the provair, expensive but suppose to keep constant watts and or volts so you dont get any fluctuation. main thing is im off cig.
    1 point
  5. For the most part I agree that China vs US has little to nothing to do with studies like this. This not about us vs them in a geographic sense. This is a us vs them in a governmental agenda sense. It is not about multi million dollar clean rooms, or DIYers making juice in their home or B&M shops making it in a back room. You can have the cleanest environment possible and still have an issue with some of these chems in the e-liquid. It is not introduced by the environment it is mixed in. it is introduced by the flavorings used 99.9% of the time. When it comes to Diethylene glycol it is introduced when manufactures try and cut corners to compete using low grade Propylene Glycol. The heavy metals come in from contaminated water (ie Tap Water), what it may be mixed in or even the coil that is used. This is all true be it Made in the USA or Made in China. Having said that, This is about governments that are hell bent on destroying the vaping industry and have billions to back slanted studies to fit an agenda. This is about the bottom dollar and losses that occur from people switching to vape products that affect the bottom dollar of Governments, Big Tobacco, and Big Pharma. How many of these studies do testing or report results of the products put out by Big Tobacco ((Made in the USA)? Rarely do these type of tests name what products are tested and when they do, non are the Big Tobacco brands... hummmm... Flavor manufacturers are stepping up to the plate and are giving test results of the flavorings they sell. This is giving the smaller e-liquid manufactures information about the chems that are in the flavorings sold. Responsible e-liquid manufactures need to know what they are putting into the end product. By having this information it makes it easier for the small companies to determine what is going into what they produce. These chems don't just magically appear in the product it has to come from somewhere. If the flavorings are clean of these chems, it will not be in the end product that is just fact. IMO The real enemy here are the the agencies that continue to further the agenda of the ones that want to kill the vaping industry. An industry as a whole that potentially will save thousands if not millions of lives over the whole planet.
    1 point
  6. Vic

    Kanger RBA Ohm's and volts

    I cut the cotton down tho and vent is leaking a little, With the coils that come with the Kanger RBA I was getting a bad taste at times and just had a lot of problems. I think I need the use more cotton as the taste is real strong. Im thinking more cotton will cut down on the juice flowing in. Don't want to crank it up to much and have it in the danger zone. at 22 watts I'm at 5.4 volts. I cut the watts down to 13 today as if I hit my mod a few times in a short period it started tasting funny, Like right on the verge of burning the wick. Its like a different taste with the RBA and making a wire coil. When set right its just a nice taste without being to strong. I might try a 5 wind at 30 mm and see what that does. I only stuck my fingers 3 times putting the wire in and bled. LOL Thanks for all the help.
    1 point
  7. I'm a huge fan of the ipv d2. Been using it for the last few months and it's been great. I swap my thundercloud rda or the tank by the vapors on there and it's a really smooth build. Also works well with the cloud champ plus and and aspire triton and the praxis tank as well. Huge fan. Again, like earthling mentioned - battery type is very important. I'm extremely paranoid when it comes to some things and vaping certainly is at the top of the list. I'm a huge fan of the snow wolf mini and the sigelei 75w is my latest pickup. But as far as size. The ipv wins hands down when it comes to size, button "clickiness", and adaptability. Enjoy!
    1 point
  8. I prefer simplicity at its finest. The closest thing to a box mod that I have and currently love is an Eleaf iStick 50W. The batteries are not changeable, it's simple, and it just works. It's variable wattage and variable voltage, I can sub-ohm if I want (I usually prefer to stick to around 1.8 ohm for coil resistance whether I build it myself or buy a premade coil), it has enough oomph to be very versatile. Best of both worlds.
    1 point
  9. Tam

    Aspire Pegasus (? spelling)

    Make sure to get the Triton 2 and not just the Triton if you decide to go that way. The original Triton gave me all kinds of problems after the first few tanks. The Triton 2 (version 2) fixed those and is much better imo. I like to use it with a 1.8 ohm coil although there are many other options available.
    1 point
  10. Hello Jessie, and welcome to VT! Popular? Why just the selection between those two? To me, neither are overly appealing, but the choice you make will be based on price, functions, size/feel, button-placement, and features (floating/adjustable pin, materials, color, etc.). You'll find that many of us here may agree that a particular device may suit the needs of the masses, but we also agree there is no "popular" or "must-have" device that everyone should own. What you should use, is based on your preferences and needs... not necessarily what is popular Also, I'll add... the battery you use in the device is very important... safety first! There are lots of recent threads with the pros and cons of different batteries and suggestions for some of the current, best-on-the-market 18650's
    1 point
  11. jasonculp

    Kanger RBA Ohm's and volts

    With a Variable Wattage (Regulated) device the ohms of your atomizer makes no difference in the draw on your battery, only the watts you have the mod set to. (It is not like a mechanical mod) To calculate how many amps is being drawn from your battery you have to take the watts and divide by the lowest cutoff voltage of your mod plus add about 10% for the inefficiency of the chip itself. So, at 50 watts max divided by 3.5 volts = 14.28 amps then add 10% and you get a max of 15.7 amps. This is totally maxing out your mod, but since you normally vape at 20 watts you are only pulling at the batteries lowest 6.3 amps from your battery. With a mechanical mod, your amp draw is at it's highest when the battery is fresh, a variable wattage device is drawing the most from your battery when it is the lowest. If you are a nerd, like me, and want to know why it works this way, here is a good link to explain why this happens Steam Engine Battery Drain go to the "How it works" link at the bottom left of the page. Here is the most accurate, and up-to-date battery test grades on the web, his testing methods are the best I have found: Mooch's Battery Safety Grades.pdf
    1 point
  12. FXRich

    Kanger RBA Ohm's and volts

    If I remember right you have a Subox Mini, that mod will go 50 watts with a .3ohm coil so you are well within the limits of your mod. I use the same mod and tank, I use 28g kanthal with a 5/4 wrap on 3mm and get .9 - 1.0 ohm coil, that is my normal build set at 10 watts. Of course the juice makes a difference, on your wattage, I use a 30PG/70VG mix, at that wattage. Your watts will vary with your juice.
    1 point
  13. Basically you have to stay under the max amps if your mod doesnt auto shut down when trying to fire coils at too low of ohms (resistance) i didnt see your battery on this list but there are others. Search safe battery chart and ohms calculator
    1 point
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