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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/27/2015 in all areas

  1. I actually already knew this, but was reminded of it this morning... When the weather gets colder and your vaping in the car, be sure to crack the window so that you can see WHERE THE HELL YOU ARE GOING!!
    2 points
  2. I recommend the Spinner, or any stick-style (eGo) battery over 1000mAh capacity, rather than the smaller BeKuali kit's batteries. Yes, they work well, and are from a reputable company, but they are short capacity, so they'll only last half-a-day to a day at most before needing to be charged. Another couple of good suggestions for batteries are the iStick 30W, Wismec Presa 40W, and the MVP-series batteries from Innokin... I cannot recommend the MVP high enough, and I recently received a Presa as a prize, and liked it so much that I bought two more! All of these will work with 510 connection tanks, and have adapters to allow you to use the eGo threaded tanks such as the KPT3-minis (which I also highly recommend).
    2 points
  3. drizzt

    help me pick a mod

    I do know to marry and label the batteries. I actually do that with all rechargeable batteries regardless of what they go in.
    1 point
  4. cany

    Trying to upgrade

    I,earned that the hardway and I still forget too check it lol
    1 point
  5. When I buy a mod, they are usually black or silver... whichever is cheaper... or if they are the same price, I'll get the one I'm in the mood for. They are investments, but they cost the same to make, so they should never be different prices just because of the color (unless one is cheaper or on-sale due to overstock)! I bought one of my older mods in blue, only because it was $3 cheaper than the other colors, and one of my IPV's is gold... because it was $10 cheaper than black/silver (I guess nobody liked the gold ones?). You can always wrap them or buy a silicone skin (for many of them)... If color is that important, shop around for the best price, but remember that most all of these mods will fade, chip, or scratch the finish/paint... eventually, so what is pretty today, will begin to look "used" tomorrow. One of my black IPV's looks grey instead of black, and with all the scratches and fading, it looks like it has been laying in a ditch for a few months, lol... but it still works like new, and that is all that matters to me!
    1 point
  6. The BeKuali kit looks pretty good, but I actually know nothing about it. I hope someone will come along and give some more information. The batteries are a little on the small size at 550 mah. It looks like a Kanger EMUS. I have never used one of these, but from what I am reading the tanks have a male 510 thread. Your current battery has both ego (the large male threads on the outside of your battery) and 510 threads which is the smaller female threads in the center of your battery. If you purchase this kit you would be able to use your battery (it will look a bit strange) with the new tank, and the included battery also. You will not be able to use your current CE5 with the new battery. The new battery only has the smaller internal threads. (510) I wish I was more help, and hope someone who uses devices in this range can add some more information to help you make your decision. The tank/atomizer is the thing that makes the vapor and determines the flavor and is really one of the most important parts of the setup. The battery just supplies the power. I do prefer an adjustable voltage battery so you can turn the volts up and down to better suit your needs. The problem with the Kanger Protank mini with the Bekuali kit is that you are going to have a mess of different threads. The Protank minis use ego threads and the BeKuali uses 510. Here is a picture I stole off the web that shows the 2 different styles of threads: Look at the pictures and try to keep most of your equipment so they will work together. This can keep you from getting in a jam later if you need to swap batteries and tanks around.
    1 point
  7. Thank you Rixter. I have struggled with how to post this without being too nerdy. There is so much more to it, and people think you are nuts when you tell them that the ohms of the atomizer have nothing to do with the amount of draw on the battery with a Variable Wattage device. The device does not care if it is a .1 ohm or a 1.8 ohm coil. It only cares how many Watts you are asking it to put out. Just to show the math: Attomizer Side: 50 watts at .1 ohms is 2.24 volts and 22.4 amps 50 watts at 1.8 ohms is 9.5 volts and 5.3 amps Since the battery (alone) can not supply 2.24 volts or 9.5 volts it is having to either boost or buck the voltage. The only thing we have that is constant is the amount of power the board is asking for. So we have to use Ohm's law to see how much current it takes to get that much power from the battery. Battery Side: 50 watts / 3.2 Volts X 1.1 to add 10% for the efficiency of the board = 17.2 amps This calculation works on Variable Voltage mods too. You just have to figure out how many Watts you are asking for on the given atomizer. It even works on the Ego Style batteries. They just have a 3.7 volt (nominal) battery in them. So we have a board doing all of the boost/buck for us. 1.8 ohms and 4.8 volts = 12.8 watts on the atomizer side (volts2 / ohms) 12.8 watts / 3.2 (I really don't know how low the board will let it go) X 1.1 = 4.4 amps drawn from the battery. Sorry for going all nerdy on this, but think we need to understand this so we choose the correct battery for our mods. There is so much bad information out there and we need to keep this hobby as safe as possible. Here is a good rule of thumb for a single 18650 variable wattage mod: Use a 20A continuous battery for under 58 watts Use a 25A continuous battery for under 70 watts Use a 30A continuous battery for under 85 watts Here is examples for a dual 18650: Use a 20A continuous battery for under 115 watts Use a 25A continuous battery for under 145 watts Use a 30A continuous battery for under 175 watts Over 200 watts, use at your own risk. There are LiPo packs, and triple battery mods that can do this safely. This is why I stick with OEM cells, LG, Samsung, Sony, ect. Using them beyond the mfg's CDR rating is possible in short bursts. The Samsung 18650 25R is actually rated to 45A for 5 seconds, and even higher for shorter periods, but this causes temps to raise, and high temps cause degradation of the battery. I personally choose not to go beyond the CDR.
    1 point
  8. Welcome! Your info is pretty vague as to your set-up and equipment, so if you want specifics, you'll need to tell us the type of battery, tank, and resistance of your coil. As for Nicotine... if you want to "casually" vape, you'll want to go with a VERY high Nicotine level... I would suggest 24-36mg if you only intend to vape it 5-7 min every hour... and honestly that will NOT work for cessation, IMO. Your best chance of success will be to use a Nicotine level from 18-36mg, flavor you like, and vape on it whenever you feel the urge to smoke. 36mg levels of Nicotine should not affect your heart-rate, especially if you're on a Beta-blocker like Coreg. Several members here regularly vape 24mg all day long (and have for years), and have no ill effects. It's roughly the equivalent Nicotine from a pack-a-day of full-flavor, unfiltered analogs. Give us some more info, and we'll be able to give more answers
    1 point
  9. To begin with, to clarify something, you don't "smoke" these. You "vape". Second, you will probably need to provide much more information as to your equipment in order to get proper vaping assistance. Again, not intending to demean your post, just correcting improper terminology. I'm sure you will get the answers you need as the day progresses. Welcome to VaporTalk. You can learn much by reading past posts and asking questions of the friendly and much more knowledgeable guys n gals in here than myself.
    1 point
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