Leaderboard

I use a 1964 Imperial by Chrysler. It has six cigarette lighters (power ports), a trunk big enough to hold the inventory of a B & M shop, a community glove box to hold the equipment of the occupants, and individual door compartments for personal supplies, and is portable.

Carry the battery or batteries (if you're packing a spare) in a proper, plastic box. D O N O T carry them loose in your pocket. You will run the chance of shorting them out across spare change, or your keys, etc. and that could cause catastrophic results in your pocket! Safety First!

The temp limit only limits the temp that the coil reaches (if it's working correctly). It does nothing with power (wattage). In other words, if you set your wattage at 50 watts, that coil is goingto get 50 watts of power no matter what temp you have set until the coil reaches that temp. Then the board goes to work dropping your power to try and maintain the temperature. I have found the ideal for flavor and clouds is to set the power and balance the temperature setting so the mod is not continually fighting itself. You may have the power set too high (for THAT juice and THAT coil and that WICK) where the coil rockets up to temp then bbounces up and down off the temp setting trying to limit it. I find its kind of self defeating to have that balance too opposing. IMO, for what I like, I like a lower power setting (between 18 - 24watts depending on juice) and a 460 limit. With good airflow that coil gets up to temp and rarely bumps up against the limit and only bumps against as the wick goes dryer as it's vaprizing the juice which happens more on long hits or chain vaping. If your wicking speed cant keep up with your power setting then you'll be constantly fighting dry wicks, hot spots, and temp control. This is an even bigger issue with RDAs with high power, multi coil set ups I'm sure. These are just my first ideas on the issues with temp control. It is the wild frontier right now.

This is a direct connect top cap without a delrin insulator. Also, no locking ring. The combination of a Hybrid connection and no locking ring, makes this a mod that needs extra care in how it is handled.

HAHA I do most things better Hammered I been on this half assed home made for a few hrs now And I gotta say thanks you guys got me hooked on building them. Ang I gotta give props to Earthling he told me when I started this Id be building my own coils. Why did I ever doubt him All his predictions about my vapin path have all come true lol

Buried in work and spending insane hours there. By the time I get home, there's only been time for a quick shower then bed. Being an adult sucks.

Funny that you post this today. I was just reading about it this morning but I don't remember where...

Cany, you're scaring me, lol. I burn 1 per day

I found this on My Vapor Store's page: Description iPV3-Li 165 Watt MOD with Temp Control by Pioneer4you Greenleaf The IPV3-LI V2 Box Mod by Pioneer4You is the newest version and most updated version of the famous IPV3 Mod. The Pioneer4You IPV3-LI V2 Box Mod packs a major punch, allowing you to go up to 165 watts and fire atomizers as low as .10 ohms! Not to mention the new IPV3-LI V2 Mod features Temperature Control and a Magnetic back cover allowing you to simply change your batteries with no hassle. The Pioneer4You IPV3-LI V2 Mod is controlled and upgradeable box mod with a 510 atomizer connector, it will come out of the box with 165W and will be upgradeable to 200W. The IPV3's Billet Aluminum body features room to use (2) 18650 Flat Top Batteries, which will increase your voltage times two. The IPV3-LI V2 box mod allows you to control wattage, for better consistency and repeatability. The Pioneer4You IPV3-LI is equipped with the new SX330-V3SL chip, the chip features Temp Control and gives you the ability to upgrade your firmware to increase the IPV3-LI's watts for future developments. The Pioneer4You IPV3-LI V2 Mod features a OLED display screen so you can see your IPV's wattage, Temperature Control, voltage, battery life, etc. Don't miss out on the IPV3-LI V2, this is the ultimate box mod! This is an advanced mod for advanced users only. Please be aware that this mod requires knowledge of battery safety and technical know-how to work properly. Features and Specs: Dimensions: 4-1/8"L x 2-1/2"W x 7/8"510 ThreadedWattage: 7w - 165wAtomizer Resistance: 0.10ohm - 3.0ohmImproved Firing ButtonAluminum BodyYihi temperature control chipsetRedesigned internalsTakes two 18650 batteries in series (not included)Yihi SX330-V3Si Upgradeable chip165 watts upgradeable to 200 watts with a later firmware updateTouch sensor functionality has returnedNo direct charging capabilityPlease note: Temperature control requires the use of nickel or titanium wire coils. I have the older ipv3. It has been a good mod. I did the 165 watt upgrade when it came out. It also has the door that is screwed on with 2 screws which is a pain. The only things I see that might give trouble with this mod is the 510 connector. They are very good, but if it is dropped with a heavy atty on it they can come loose and you will have to replace it with a Fat Daddys or Varitube one. The original is just pressed in. Here is the upgrate (upgrade) software: Nevermind....It is acting weird and not posting my links...

I really don't have many clones, but I really don't have a problem with them. One of mine a 4nine clone is great, my other is a G-PAPS clone and it is junk. I have not bought any tanks, but it is just because I have not found a clone of anything I am really wanting. One clone I am interested in at this time is the Geeko rDNA clone. I am told it has the same 60 watt DNA40 clone that my Zero mod has. Wait...my daily driver, my Zero mod is a clone...lol The rDNA clones are getting hard to find because of the Cease and Desist Order that Vapor Shark has put out there (supposedly). With Vapor Shark down to $130 and 15% off this weekend it is tempting, but I really shouldn't buy one because I would be busting my budget. That tells me a lot about the company who sent you the product. A true review should be about the product not the person who provided it (unless they suck too). If you can't be honest the review is worthless. It is no longer a review and is turned into a commercial. They should be happy to know they are supplying a crappy product so they can pull the produce, fire sale it, or seek recourse from the manufacturer. A pissed off customer costs a business much more than some junk inventory.

​If you've never been a smoker, I won't knock you for having juice with Nicotine, but I have to ask, "Why?". If you are sensitive to Nicotine, as suggested, buy the same flavor in 0-nic and mix the two 1:1... that will give you 3 mg Nicotine. I would suggest that you don't go any higher than that, AND if you're going to sub-ohm, you may think about mixing even more 0-nic, say 3:1 to get to 1 mg nicotine... or just use the zero?? Nicotine is absorbed MUCH faster by the body when it is hotter, which is why when sub-ohming, most of us use 0-6mg Nic levels, even though we'd vape 12-24 mg in a non-sub-ohm tank.

I wish I could do that lol I get too nervous Im not gonna have something I want

Well, I can pick this up locally, but Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday are my long days. No way I'll get over there til thursday. Just as well, not like I'm hurtin. Just means I'll tap in to my stash and try some other stuff. Then this weekend it'll taste all that much sweeter, haha. But I WILL find a way over there before I head out of town this weekend. @earthling - I swear I had a whole bottle somewhere..... Anybody remember that scene in Continental Divide where Belushi loses his carton of ciggys to a bear when he's hiking in the Rockies. He has a couple left. That scene where he's smoking his last ciggy is classic funny stuff.

Oh, man... I did that a while back... I thought I had another bottle of my ADV, but the spare was empty... That took me back to the days when I'd think I had a pack of smokes in my backpack or truck, and then realize the one I just finished WAS the spare from my backpack