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Sugar coating and tact are not on my radar tonight or so it seems. I call a spade a frickin' shovel.

WTG, Vapor Talk! 1 more like and you'll have 3k! Well earned and deserved.

Just me and my opinion, but I'd buy new from a reputable vendor so I know what I'm getting. If it's not, there is recourse. Buying used? Not so much. You don't know if it's been dropped, what kind of use/abuse it's seen (even if the outside looks good, it doesn't mean the inside is as well). Like I said, that's just my opinion.

Since vaping gives me wicked dry mouth I've cut Coke and sweet tea. I'm doing about 2-3 liters of water a day I've dropped about 8 pounds in the last 30 days. Yeah me!

Here's Coil Toy, a handy little online coil building calculator that you might find interesting. Just plug in your numbers and it shows you what your coil should look like.

Hello everyone! This is my first post and I hope to make it worthwhile! I am not sure if this is the type of forum where you are expected to search through previous post to find answers. If so I apologize, I would prefer to explain my individual situation and get some advice. I am attempting to build my first RDA, having some issues, and that is where you guys come in. I'll begin by telling you the equipment I am using prior to adding a rebuild. 1. DNA 20 Clone 2. Aspire Nautilus Tank I have recently decided I would like to try an RDA because the idea of dripping appeals to me. In addition, even though I have a 20 watt battery, the Aspire tank seems incapable of handling anything over 13 watts, anything over that is extremely hot and often harsh as though I am damaging the coil. I'd also like to be able to switch or sample flavors without switching tanks. I am aware that a DNA 20 is probably not the best choice for a rebuild as it is quite weak. I am not interested in buying a new battery until I at least get a working rebuild and decide for myself if it is sufficient. Anyway there is the background, on to the rebuild. I purchased a plume veil clone recently at a local vapor store. Unfortunately the person who knows rebuilds was not there, and after much pressuring the girl told me she would do her best to set me up. (She didn't think she knew enough to help me, she was right). She gave me a 28 gauge "pre-built" coil. I was okay with the prebuilt because I could see how a finished product is supposed to look, I don't remember how she came up with 28 gauge. I came home and hooked it up correctly I know after watching many videos. My DNA displays "Check Atomizer". I have tried taking out battery, lowering wattage even to 7 and up to 20, and nothing. I do not have a tester so I don't know the resistance although I am thinking due to the size of the wire it is too low for the DNA. So my question is this. 1. What do I need to do to get my RDA working on my DNA clone, other than buying a new battery. 2. What gauge wire would be best? 3. How many wraps? (I guess this depends on the size of the object I'm wrapping but still) 4. What type of cotton? I appreciate any help I can get, sorry if this is not enough information!

I think he fergot ta take his meds after I seen that tutu video...

A pipe dream? (Pun intended) The Holy Grail of hardware manufacturers. The idea that the holder of a 10 year old technology will dominate the market is a little absurd. What I think is the tobacco biggies will survive the FDA and then pass on the costs to the consumer and the consumer will pay "$6 a pack" prices to vape. Meanwhile, we'll be firing up the still hidden in the back 40 and sitting around clutching our our mods and pro tanks talking about the glory days of vaping...

And to think, I remember when this forum had only 5 members!

That kind of sounds like the used car salesman telling a potential buyer how the car was previously owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays. LOL

Well, if it is not removable, then it is definitely a V1 Protank mini. Still not a bad tank, but IIRC, they are plastic, not Pyrex? My only concern on the MVP, if it is a V1, it's probably "tired" and may not hold a charge for long. If it is a V2.0, it depends on how "used" it is, as it may be on it's last leg for charge-cycles. I've had my V2.0 for nearly a year now, and it still works like a champ and lasts 2 days (easily) on a charge, but I've taken care of it, and it's probably still got another year of life left. So, I'd ask the question on when it was purchased, was it stored "discharged" or "full", how often has it been used, etc. You can buy a NEW MVP 2.0 from several online vendors for < $40 (Vaporbeast.com has them listed @ $33.32)... so if it were me, I'd see if you can get him down on the price

** Bows ** LOL, I've used that one more than once Just because you bought a million-dollar, nuclear-powered uber-mod that was designed by Einstein, and forged from Space-Metal that fell off Mechagodzilla's tail... doesn't mean you have to crank it to 11 and melt the base of your atomizer... or irradiate the neighbors...

I also enjoy the art work on mech. Ordering an emma 1:1 clone and decided to get the ancient dragon mech also. I do love my hcigar nemesis, just need to find magnets for it. My friends seem to love their fuhattans. Now I was going to get the EMMA Mech from the original designer, you know award the company who put in the R&D dollars into it. But i contacted a friend in the Philippines and was surprised what you can pick up an original for. SO basically I have to pay 5x cause im in the USA or Europe. I want to reward the designer not a third party person. But it is true for me also that my work horse is my regulated device.....to make it a comparison to my analog days. cigaretts = regulated device cigar time = mech mod

Joe! Good to see you! I can't believe 5 years have come and gone. Here's looking to another 5 more! I found keeping it easy also worked for me. Simple twist batteries, Kanger tanks and the EVOD.

interesting ..... i need to check that out. first question where is the air hole...lol

First of all, Welcome to VT! I won't even begin to address the marker tube, lol You can get a new glass or stainless-steel tube for your Nautilus mini for $5-8 online... best to do that and keep using it! Also, it would be advisable to pick up another tank or two... backups and spares keep you from going back to analogs or being without your vape-rig for days at a time, until you can get to the store or your online order arrives. The IPV-mini2 is 70W, yes, but just because it GOES to 70W doesn't mean you'd use it that high. The Wattage you use is dependent on the juice and the tank (or other device) you're using. For a Nautilus mini on that box-mod... I'd suggest somewhere between 9 and 18W (again, depending on the resistance of the coil and juice you're using). Basically think of it this way... just because your car's speedo goes to 140, doesn't mean every time you tear out of the driveway you have to immediately DO 140!! Vaping is much the same way. Also, the IPV-mini2 (as do all the IPV's) takes a rechargeable 18650 battery, so you'd need to pick up 2 or more of those (Samsung 25r, Sony VTC4, or similar dependable name-brands), and a good charger. You can recharge them with the IPV, but it takes forever (or so it seems). For you, I would suggest an integrated battery box-mod, like the MVP 2.0, 3.0, 20W... or the ELeaf iStick 20W, or 30W. They basically work out of the box with nothing more to buy! Also, you can buy two MVP's or three iSticks for the price of the IPV-mini2 (not even counting the additional cost of batteries and charger!). Stick with your Nautilus or similar tanks and you'll not have to worry with building your own coils, unless you want to, later down the line. The Nautilus tanks work VERY well with the MVP, iSticks, or even the IPV (or any box-mod).

Yup,, We better watch out our next election ballot mite have a female from Colorado on it... She aint been wrong yet since I've been follow'n her... I'd vote fer TAM!!!!

Tug, you ain't seen nothing yet. If you want to know what being old is... Climb inside my refrigerator box/fort and I will tell ya... I promiss, Tam won't be allowed...Well, maybe for a few minutes but that's all...lmfao

Tam is always spot-on with preaching about backups for your backups I've been in that position too, where one dies, another has no charge (when you thought it did), and a third (or fourth) finally works enough to get you home... As for tanks... I keep one flavor in one tank, or at least rotate two similar flavors in the same tank, so I'm not having to clean them as often (to remove flavors) or swap coils as often (to remove flavors). I currently vape about a dozen or so different flavors... but only have TWO favorites... the others are a few hits here and there to mix up the pallet. I have roughly 20 tanks that I use regularly. 16 of them are rotating through different flavors, and the rest hold my all-day-vapes, so I don't have to stop and fill a tank when I vape it dry. Currently on my desk are 4 box-mods (two with my two ADVs, two with other good flavors), and all the other tanks are sitting in the rack, filled, and ready to vape when I want them. Sooo, yes, as you progress into vaping, picking up a tank here, battery there... you will eventually have more than you "think" you'll need, lol, but as you start out, having a few tanks (I always like to suggest 3-4, minimum) and batteries (minimum of two) to keep you going through the day, and allows you to try new juice flavors, and still have a "current favorite" loaded and ready.

Nice spoiler.

I question everything! ...mostly your sanity but still...

I feel like a crack addict wanting more vape gear.I need it I need it! Lol

I'm 28 and I already feel like an old man,sciatic nerve pain in my back,bad knee and balding.my idea of fun is a double shot of whiskey and a nap lol!

The older we get, the more fun we need in our lives. You should try it sometime, it'll be loads of fun!

Yes, it can be overwhelming, lol... To make it easy, just select a gauge of wire. For an RDA like the Plume, I'd go with 28ga for simplicity. It is thick enough to work with, and still thin enough to allow you to have room for error in your wraps. When you use the calculator, plugging in the known value of 28ga, and using a known size drill bit to wrap on are easy enough to plug in. Then select the desired Ohms you want to hit... which for your DNA20 must be above 1.0... so select 1.2 Ohms for a nice round number. For this coil, you would make 8 wraps around a 2mm drill bit (both legs/leads facing the same side). This will give you a 1.2 Ohm single-coil. If you wanted a dual-coil build, you would make two identical coils, 16 wraps (each) around the same 2mm drill bit. All of this came from the online calculator, and it is for reference... the only way to be sure of the coil you built is to use an Ohm meter! You still need an Ohm meter to verify you did it correctly, and that you don't have any shorts before attempting to fire it. Once you confirm it is built correctly, wick it with the wick of your choice, add juice, and vape! Again, the reason you're getting "check atomizer" is not because it is necessarily "unsafe", but because the resistance of the coil your attempting to use is below the capability of the device. The DNA20 will not fire any coil below 1.0 Ohms, and may even be picky about those in the 1.1 Ohm range... which is why I suggested a 1.2 Ohm build... and you can go higher, if you add wraps to the coil. A thicker gauge wire will take more wraps to make the same resistance. A thinner gauge wire (like 32ga) will take less wraps to make the same 1.2 Ohms.

Welcome... First of all... the reason your MOD is reading "check atomizer" is because the coil she gave you is below 1 Ohm (sub-ohm), and your DNA20 will not fire any coil below 1 Ohm. We're all for helping, and guiding you along, but first thing is first... you need to get a proper, dedicated Ohm Meter for checking your builds BEFORE you attempt to fire them with any mod... catastrophic "booms" can and will occur with improper equipment and super-low Ohm builds! Safety First! The only way to get your DNA20 to fire the Plume Veil is to build the coil above 1.0 Ohms. The type of wire and thickness is up to you... Kanthal A-1 in 30ga, 28ga, 26ga will be perfectly fine (and up to you) How many wraps? Use an online calculator like Steam-Engine.org to determine coil builds... and LEARN Ohm's Law (again, Safety!) Cotton will be your choice... Silica wick, Standard Cotton, Organic Cotton, Japanese Cotton, Rayon... all useable... Organic cotton, Rayon, and Silica are easiest to work with (don't require boiling or prep-work). Watch LOTS of youtube videos, buy an Ohm Meter, and buy a MOD (and battery) that are safe for sub-ohming . There are hundreds of threads on here with TONS of info on builds, batteries, MODs, cotton, and how-to's... you don't have to read them, but it is honestly easier to skim a few dozen posts than it is for you to wait for 50 people to comment on this post

I like inglorious bastards

This is awesome...look at it chuck!

Stripes