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I am on a tight budget, and have a vamo V5 that is on it's last legs. I want to switch over to a mechanical mod for as cheap as possible. I've seen some really cheap clones in the $20 price range. Am I fooling myself thinking those might preform decently and not break immediately. I don't need anything particularly beautiful are super well crafted. I can live with threading that is not smooth as butter and a firing button that a little stiff or slightly wobbly, and I don't care if the engraving looks like crap. I hope to get a nicer mod as money allows, but right now I just need the minimum to get by, without sacrificing too much performance. Thanks for all the help you guys have given me so far, I don't know where I would be without this forum.

If you could go back all those months or years ago to when you first started vaping, what would you recommend yourself to have bought. Don't just say a "MOD and a RBA" lol. I'm trying to put together a list of the best products for the money.

I rinse them out with water, then soak them in vodka, let them dry overnight and reuse. This will help if they are not too gunked up or burned. I was having the same problem when I first got my Nautilus, but one day it just wasn't a problem any more...I don't know what changed, if I changed the way I was drawing on it, or if the quality of the coils got better, or if the stars all aligned properly.. I wish I could help more!

new top cap for my 26650 stillare

This may sound nuts, but I've cleaned the crud out of firing buttons of flashlights and similar items using tablet Denture Cleaner soak for 20-30 minutes to loosen the crud, and then an old toothbrush to clean the threading areas and crevices I also always soak or rinse in 90-100% alcohol to aid in water removal (removes mineral deposits left by air-drying just water rinses). I don't know what it will do to brass or copper (discolorations), but it works well for aluminum and SS I wouldn't think it would damage brass/copper... but use at your own risk (or test a "real" copper penny or brass trinket)

I bought a Magma a while back, and use 3mg or 6mg juices in it, when I bother to use it... Yes, the flavor and vapor are amazing, but I guess I'm just too simple to bother with it very often, and I'm not a cloud-chaser The flavor from my RTA's (Russian 91%) is just as good, and I don't have to carry a bottle of juice from room to room... I guess that makes me a solid tank-guy, lol. The RDA (Magma), to me is akin to a good pipe or after-dinner cigar... worth the effort if you are "stationary", even though it does hold quite a bit of juice in the tray/well, but I'm way too active, which is why I prefer tanks or RTA's (rebuild-able customization, but still have juice capacity, and less "mess").

I always wondered about that. I thought it was a bit funny that NiChrome was always referred to by the metals it's composed of while kanthal was always "kanthal". Glad to know my suspicions weren't just me being slightly insane.

Here is a few! http://shop.vaperev.com/devices/variable-voltage/vapor-flask.htm http://www.gratefulvaper.com/dna-40-mods.html http://www.freighttrainmods.com/

check out the IPV

As a lifelong Dodger fan, I have to root against your Giants. Sorry. LOL So I will be pulling for KC (if you squint at the screen, it looks like a Dodgers vs Giants game anyways).

Tam: Me:

OMG This topic is brilliant. I never knew about these functions on my MVPs. I sorta in my electronically challenged mind, thought that it was like screwing a 100 w light bulb into a 12 v socket. It wouldn't do much because of not enough volts. But discovering I wasn't just adjusting watts to voltage and vice versa, but changing on which the unit was functioning. (Not sure I said that right) or whatever I'm doing, has given my MVP more dimensions than I even knew it had. It has made a big improvement in flavour and vapour production. Amazing! Thanks so much to all who provided this info. I shall study all these posts and hopefully become smarter.