Leaderboard

Oh yeah. Like someone on ECF measured the particulates of vapor and smoke. Give me a break and don't regurgitate useless tips that you see on ECF here on this forum.

You need to have at least 10 posts to post in the classifieds. Be forewarned that new comers don't usually have much luck selling. i f your here just to sell shit, then go away.

Rape 1 .1. The crime of forcing another person to submit to sex acts, especially sexual intercourse. 2. The act of seizing and carrying off by force; abduction. 3. Abusive or improper treatment; violation: a rape of justice. tr.v. raped, rap·ing, rapes 1. To force (another person) to submit to sex acts, especially sexual intercourse; commit rape on. 2. To seize and carry off by force. 3. To plunder or pillage.

Actually, there is an airflow adjuster for the Kanger Pro Tanks, it's just not made by Kanger. I don't remember where I got mine but I've had it for over three weeks now and it works perfectly.

The eGo Twist and the Vision Spinner are essentially the same, just made by different companies. I prefer the Vision Spinner because the numbers are much easier to see so I know what voltage I'm using with just a glance. The Twist's numbers are etched into the metal and are very hard to see for me. I'd add either a Kangor Pro Tank 2 or an Anyvape Davide mini with 1.8 ohm or 2.2 ohm coils. The Davide mini is my preferred tank when I'm not direct dripping, it gives great performance, imo. Add some e-liquid at 18 or 24 mg of nicotine and start with a 50 PG/50 VG ratio would be my recommendation. I was a pack a day Marlboro Light smoker when I went to vaping. The 24 mg of nic helped get me over the rough spots and it didn't take very long at all before I went down to 12 mg of nicotine. YMMV.

Quite a few years ago I made a New Year's resolution: Never make anymore New Year's resolutions. So far, so good. I finally figured out that I was only setting myself up to fail even if I would've done that resolution on my own. Just knowing the resolution was there made me want to break it.

Even though I am brand new here I wanted to get started on the right foot. So I made this hopefully easy to follow Tutorial to help out anyone who likes the look of wood mods but like me can't afford them right now. This was made in an apartment with hand tools, so you don't need a fancy workshop or special tools to make it. So If you think of a easier way to do something or want to substitute a part you already have that will work for You go right ahead. Also I tried to make this as comprehensive as possible , but if you have any questions or comments please feel free to Post. P.S. I will also be posting a followup Tutorial for a VV Dual 18650 wood mod next which will be referenced back to this tutorial for the basic box build and to highlight the differences. So please be sure to check out that one also. This one is a simple one battery mod but it works great and I find myself alternately using it all day and very light weight so easy to carry around when out and about. Here is what is getting built Here is the part list of what is needed to build it you may already have these items if not I will tell you where I obtained them. If you are anything like me once you build your first mod you want to keep on modding everything. So I recommend that you get a few of these parts so that when mod fever comes over you. Everything you need is right there. Once again feel free to substitute for any parts that you may already have available. Madvapes - 510 sealed battery connector - $1.49 Either silver or brass. They can be a pain to solder so Madvapes offers prewired ones for $2.99 its up to you. Horn Switch - $.89 they come in many colors and have been very sturdy for me with a nice clicky feel when pushed $2.99 New chrome switch picked up a couple so far like the way they look but no clicky when pushed LED - $.49 to $1.59 Come in 3mm or 5mm with many colors to choose from pick the one you like (they come with resistor needed added to package so no need to buy separately) If you don't already have batteries and a charger you might want to pick some up. The way this mod is built you can use 16340 or 18350 or any battery that will fit a 19mm x 38mm (Spring fully depressed) holder. You can pick IMR or protected your choice I recommend at least 2 (1 charging while other being used) If you have never been to this site look around some they have a lot of great stuff especially for DIY Vapoligy - They have a 5% off code Outcast Vaping. Plus they offer a lifetime 10% off for current and former military (any Military or Veteran get 10% off FOREVER! All they have to do is create an account then email me a scan or anything that proves military service of any kind in any branch to jim@vapoligy.com and I will code them to a special “Military personal” account wich gives the military discount on all prices, then on top of that they can still use a coupon code for even better savings. http://www.vapoligy.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=27 Battery spring plates .99 a pair I found these and like how sturdy & easy to work with these are. But you can use any type of connectors or holders you want. Just adjust the sizes accordingly. Another site worth looking around for other stuff he even carries kanthal, nichrome, and wick for when you get a Rebuildable atomizer. (3) 6 inch red wires and (3) 6 inch black wires - solid or stranded 20 to 22 gauge Small rare earth magnets - A few months ago I went on amazon and bought (50) 1/8 x 1/16 magnets but can't remember where I bought them at but I believe radio shack carries 1/4" ones which should work you need at least 4 Home depot Hobby board red oak $1.49 for a 1 1/2" x 1/4" x 2 foot I love the grain on these. They also come in other widths and lengths if you decide to make more mods. 3/4" wood screen $2.29 for 8 foot length. If you already have a piece of wood 3/4" wide use that. If not get this and cut it in half in the store for easier carrying. Tools needed Hopefully you have most of these already which will save you money. If not most can be picked up at Home depot Drill and various bits Soldering Iron Solder and flux or solder embedded with flux Hand Saw Mitre Box Some type of Clamp I picked up mine at Big Lots Years ago and can't remember how much. Home Depot sells them for aroung $10 bucks. or you can use tape or string or whatever clamp parts together until glue dries Some type of Wood Glue make sure its stain-able (Liquid Nails from Home depot has been working for me) Super Glue Hot glue gun Wire strippers Various grits of sandpaper Sanding block Small can of Wood Stain Pick the color you like best at Home depot near the paint section. I use MinWax brand with success Small can of fast drying polyurethane same as above (Both can be found at walmart also.) Alright now that is out of the way lets get to it shall we. First off using mitre box cut red oak hobby board you need (4) 2 1/2" pieces look at them find some interesting patterns and mark those for your front and back other 2 left and right (2) 2" pieces again mark them top and bottom (1) 1 3/4" piece marked as angle panel from screen wood you need (1) 2" piece (1) 3/4" piece Helpful Tips - Always use the same tool for all your measurements Measure,mark and cut. Do not mark all your cuts at the beginning and then try and cut them 1 after another some pieces will be longer than the others. Run sandpaper lightly over cut edges to remove excess before you measure. always cut on same place of the mark whether you go left/right or directly on the mark. If you have access to power tools like a table saw or sanders use them it will make this much easier. I hope you enjoyed my tutorial. Do me a favor if anyone makes one please post a picture for me I would love to see it. I would also appreciate any and all comments and or critiques. Or if anyone feels I gave out any unsafe advice please let me know. A great many thanks to Christopher and Jeffb for their permission and assistance in getting this posted. Its a pretty great feeling when someone asks you where you bought your mod and you are able to tell them No I made it.

Its like Celebrity Jeopardy!

Its all in the liquid configuration and coil resistance not the tank.

Every person will have a different answer !

Nope

I believe you too lol, and I never even paid attention to your name I am usually too busy trying to decode your posts into decipherable English lol. I will say this, as a very very liberal person, the use of the word "rape" in a name is going to be offensive to some in most communities and comparing that to e-cig bans is a far stretch even for the "car dealer".

He clearly does not understand the difference between "vapor" and "vaper" let alone raping and rapping. It's really difficult to argue semantics with him. But the pic? I think he's done too many drugs...the wrong kind!!

Got an IGO-L ($11.41 shipped from Triangle Vape) for my new Magneto.

Just me, but I'd be inclined to go with the Davide mini just because I'd need to change out the coils and their price. I have a couple of Aspire Bottom coils, don't know if it's the same one you're looking at. They're...okay, but not something I use regularly particularly because of the price of the coils and the Davide mini performs better for me.

FYP for situational accuracy.

Well, the use of words with negative connotations to describe or imply good things has a long history in slang. The word "bad" comes to mind. Def 2 is a stretch and the op has given no indication that he even knows that def exists. But it is the only def that works. Someone who hates spiders or has been injured by one might take the same offense with your name. Notworth the fuss imo

Yup. So, in a word, inappropriate.

Yea the protank almost requires a flavor wick in order to hold back the juice in the tank. You will have to experiment with the size tho.

Just picked up 5 packs of boge cartos from sure vapes for 24.99 can't beat that with a stick!

I agree with everyone else! Good advice as usual. Get a pair of nice 1300 twist/spinner's and a few Kanger Protanks/ aspire tanks and some replacement heads. I do not recommend an advanced pv just yet.

Um, no. Inappropriate?

Found it. http://www.discountvapers.com/adapter-510-to-510-with-air-flow-ring/

yea i will probably stay away from trying to sell anything on here for now. Trust will most certainly be a big concern. There will always be next year though!

http://szkyx.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-220699463/E_LVT.html

Ahhh the memories that brings back... Da%n they got old! LOL They can still rock the house though!

Hey, Jeff? I just rechecked the forum rules and there's nothing that states you need a minimum of 10 posts before you can put something up on the classifieds thread. Maybe add that for future reference?

Don't do reso's

We see a lot of new vapers on this forum who start out smoking and vaping, trading off from one to the other for some time before they gradually go with vaping altogether. Like mcquinn said, it's not an all or nothing type of thing. You can vape and smoke and let things happen naturally. For me, when I started vaping, I gave myself permission to do both. It only took five days before I was totally off the cigarettes and didn't want them anymore. Since then, I've picked up a whole new hobby: vaping. Yes, there are a lot of new things to learn. Even those of us who have been vaping for some time now still learn new things all the time. Don't stress out that you haven't made the switch right away. That kind of thinking will only make it worse, imo. Take a count of how many cigarettes you usually smoke in a day. Then, count out that many cigarettes for yourself on day one. Vape when you want to. At the end of the day count the remaining cigarettes. How many less did you smoke that day? Keep a smoking diary so you can see the progress. If you slip, no big deal, start again the next day. As time goes by you'll find that your cigarette count goes down. Stay with it. You've got the start part down by getting some good, quality stuff from Brian. Great move there, by the way. You can't do better than Brian at The Veteran Vaper. We'll be here with you every step of the way. In the mean time go through the threads of this forum and read everything you can starting with the pinned threads. You'll learn so much there.

Shall we play 'let's pretend', okay? Let's pretend that this was really a serious study done by impartial scientists... I'll wait until you stop laughing and can catch your breath. How many of these people who would quit would remain off cigarettes one month later? Six months later? Anyone want to take a stab at one year later? If I were a betting woman my money would be on "most of them would go back to smoking as soon as the idiot stop smoking zealots turned their backs".

Got more juice 2 from mr. E liquid loved alot of there stuff but ended up getting Blue voodoo Dime piece (peach/cranberry)

Problem solved. Returned it for rsst

Got 4 new flavors today, been a good while since I have tried anything new. Gonnna let them steep a week or two before trying them but they all smell great! All ECBlends all 18mg 60vg 40pg The Dr. (Dr Pepper flavor) The Dew (Mtn Dew flavor) Bahama Mama Tropical Punch I figure since my favorites are always drinks at least 1 or 2 of this quartet are bound to be keepers!

Not sure about this. I have started literally over a dozen people that are now Vaping exclusively and every one of them wanted to suck on the thing like one would a joint (sorry mods, had to use the reference) as opposed to an analog. Once they started taking proper draws the coughing and such subsided. Take a slow steady draw into your mouth, inhale it then quickly exhale it. I have yet to know anyone that had a problem when doing it this way. Just draw on it the same as you did an analog and you should be fine. Yes there are some withdrawal symptoms from all the lethal chemicals that arent nicotine and you may have some heartburn issues if you do not properly hydrate.

it wasn't so much vape mail but Christmas mail. Santa was good to me, I got a Hammer Clone from my fiancé, and a Kayfun Lite Clone from my fiancé's brother

An LR atty on a 1000 mah battery will drain it faster than a SR atty on a 1000 mah battery.

Now you're changing the argument. If we insert a person's vaping habits into the equation then all bets are off. But the fact still remains. All things being equal, a LR atty will drain a battery faster than a SR atty. This is not my opinion, this Ohms law, not Ohms opinion.

Do the following: 1) raise the post on your battery a little 2) with your tank assembled, use a paper clip to rock the pin of the atomizer "out" a little bit so it hangs a little lower 3) screw the beauty ring down all the way then screw your tank on only until it makes contact with battery and it fires. Then, screw the beauty ring "up" to the base of the tank. Don't over tighten You should be good

I pesonally didn't have any problems with my KP2 besides the airhole issues. I just seen a lot of postings (not just on this forum) about small issues that many people had with theirs. I only had one problem with mine and it was an airhole issue that is taken care of now. I like how the entire tank can be taken apart for cleaning, my KPmini broke the other day (apparantly they don't bounce just glad I had another one) and there was nothing to save since its just one solid piece but I kept the base (I have no idea what I'll do with it). I personally like Kangers but I haven't tried any other brand so I have no idea if I'm missing anything. I never had anything survive a vodka soak so Pluid must be a STRONG smell, maybe another Vodka soak before putting it back together. In other news I can't wait to see the final AeroTank in person. HnyBear you are so lucky, have you done work with Kanger before to make them choose you?

My resolution is to TRY not to do the same stupid things I have done in 2013!

Well I eventually got my reimbursement from PayPal, so all is good in the world again.

Thx submitted the help ticket we'll see what happens.

From their homepage you click on "contact us" at the top of the page and you get lots of text and: *Please be aware that we do not handle customer service at the email address above or at the telephone number above. To keep things organized and to give the best possible and most consistent service you must use our ticket system at http://www.igotvapes.com. We published this information here solely because we belong to the ECF forum and their regulations require us to publish an email address and phone number on our contact page. GotVapes.com 10715 Buckeye Furnace Sugar Land, TX 77498 Email Address: daniel@gotvapes.com Telephone: (832)241-7039* The link is here. http://www.gotvapes.com//index.php?main_page=contact_us

It's not about not supporting American Venders. I can show receipts of how I have spent over 5-8 times as much with American venders than I have with the 3 orders I have received from fast tech. It is about saving some money on things that I have no problem waiting for. Some of which can't be bought from American vendors. My IGOs were, yes, bought from fast tech saving $50 over getting then from an American Vendor. That's not just a couple bucks. When I volume buy, I will compare prices just like any American Vendor does. If I want it yesterday and I need it that bad, I will be the first one to hit Sweet Vapes, LiteEcig, ..etc

That sucks iheart... Sad that society has degenerated so much in recent years... with my up bringing I was taught that nothing was more important than your word... I still live by that and have taught my kids the same... too bad that it seem to be no longer the case with the majority of people these days.

This was brought up in another thread, moding out a multimeter for testing atomizers. I had bought a Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter just for building coils and testing other E-cig needs. I promised a tutorial of what I did when I was done, well, here it is. I started with a stock Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter This Multimeter comes in its own case and is mounted with 2 screws into the case for changing the battery. I wanted to use the case it came in as it was very compact and is easy to store. After some thought I decided to make a panel that would fit into where the test leads were stored. This would allow me to close the case lid and keep it all in one neat package. I found an old 5.25 black bay cover for a PC to make the panel. I used connectors I salvaged from dead 510 and 901 batteries and atomizes also some used wire from a old PC LED. I wanted a tight fit for the panel so I made a template of the test lead storage plate from a piece of semi ridged clear plastic. Laying the plastic over the multimeter I traced out the shape I needed for my panel with a Sharpie. After cutting the template out, I traced it onto the 5.25 bay cover. I placed the template in the upper right corner of the bay cover. This would allow the downed edge to act as a stop and a support for the panel once in place. Using a Dremel I cut out the basic shape, leaving room to adjust it's shape to fit tight in the test lead storage area of the Multimeter. I used the Dremel with a sanding cylinder to shape it for clean fit. I used a 5/16th in drill bit to make the holes where the new leads would be mounted. This bit was a tad smaller than the atty and batt but, I wanted a tight fit. The 3/8ths bit was just a hair to large. I then took my Dremel and a small sanding cylinder to make the holes just the right size for them to fit nice an snug. Note the holes are a little off I made a line to follow but the center punch moved a bit on the second hole from the top. Ooops lol After that was all done and ready to go, I soldered the all the leads together. I did this before installing them into the panel so I wouldn't risk melting the plastic panel. Once soldered and mounted them into the panel. I did a test on all the new leads to make sure all had a good connection and they all worked. I did this by taking a base reading on 1 atty. Then using it with an adapter to test both the 510 and 901 atty leads. I then used 1 batt and did the same with the 510 and 901 batt leads. After it all tested a go, I then used 5min epoxy to glue the leads in place. I also added some to the wires so they would move and possibly break the solder joint. I want to be able to remove the panel when I want so the wires had to be secured. Once the epoxy had set, I retested the leads just to make sure all the leads were still working. It was at this time that I cut the original leads from the multimeter making sure I left a little extra in case of a redo. I then soldered them to the leads of the panel. To protect the connection I used some shrink tubing on these connections. Now it is time to pop in the panel and test it again. It all tested good so there it is, a custom 510, 901 Atty and Batt tester. The space at the top allows me to add 4-5 adapters for testing other size attys, Batts or extending the lead up to test tanks that are to big around to fit directly on the 510 lead. I Love DIY!