Leaderboard

It's funny you mention leaving the analogs out. My parents were both smokers and from the age of 5 i was stealing their analogs and sneaking off for cigs with friends. at age 6 i bought my first can of Hawkens tobacco. It was very common for children to have access to the analog stuff back in the day. If there were children around my house i would definately keep the stuff out of reach it's just too dangerous and they don't understand those dangers. When the kiddo's come over for holidays etc i lock up my cabinets (nicotine and gun) and then lock the room they are in. The kids getting ahold of something like that can destroy many many lives. Being an adult means accepting responsibility for the things in your house. Therefore LOCK it up and hide the key!

This was brought up in another thread, moding out a multimeter for testing atomizers. I had bought a Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter just for building coils and testing other E-cig needs. I promised a tutorial of what I did when I was done, well, here it is. I started with a stock Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter This Multimeter comes in its own case and is mounted with 2 screws into the case for changing the battery. I wanted to use the case it came in as it was very compact and is easy to store. After some thought I decided to make a panel that would fit into where the test leads were stored. This would allow me to close the case lid and keep it all in one neat package. I found an old 5.25 black bay cover for a PC to make the panel. I used connectors I salvaged from dead 510 and 901 batteries and atomizes also some used wire from a old PC LED. I wanted a tight fit for the panel so I made a template of the test lead storage plate from a piece of semi ridged clear plastic. Laying the plastic over the multimeter I traced out the shape I needed for my panel with a Sharpie. After cutting the template out, I traced it onto the 5.25 bay cover. I placed the template in the upper right corner of the bay cover. This would allow the downed edge to act as a stop and a support for the panel once in place. Using a Dremel I cut out the basic shape, leaving room to adjust it's shape to fit tight in the test lead storage area of the Multimeter. I used the Dremel with a sanding cylinder to shape it for clean fit. I used a 5/16th in drill bit to make the holes where the new leads would be mounted. This bit was a tad smaller than the atty and batt but, I wanted a tight fit. The 3/8ths bit was just a hair to large. I then took my Dremel and a small sanding cylinder to make the holes just the right size for them to fit nice an snug. Note the holes are a little off I made a line to follow but the center punch moved a bit on the second hole from the top. Ooops lol After that was all done and ready to go, I soldered the all the leads together. I did this before installing them into the panel so I wouldn't risk melting the plastic panel. Once soldered and mounted them into the panel. I did a test on all the new leads to make sure all had a good connection and they all worked. I did this by taking a base reading on 1 atty. Then using it with an adapter to test both the 510 and 901 atty leads. I then used 1 batt and did the same with the 510 and 901 batt leads. After it all tested a go, I then used 5min epoxy to glue the leads in place. I also added some to the wires so they would move and possibly break the solder joint. I want to be able to remove the panel when I want so the wires had to be secured. Once the epoxy had set, I retested the leads just to make sure all the leads were still working. It was at this time that I cut the original leads from the multimeter making sure I left a little extra in case of a redo. I then soldered them to the leads of the panel. To protect the connection I used some shrink tubing on these connections. Now it is time to pop in the panel and test it again. It all tested good so there it is, a custom 510, 901 Atty and Batt tester. The space at the top allows me to add 4-5 adapters for testing other size attys, Batts or extending the lead up to test tanks that are to big around to fit directly on the 510 lead. I Love DIY!

"I'm gettin the fruit, and the crust" "Reminds me of childhood." Bahahaha.

We're trying to put together a complete list of the most accurate, reputable and unbiased e-cigarette studies for our website. You can view our current list here: http://www.cigbuyer.com/studies/ Can anyone point us to any additional studies, research or reports that should be included in this list? We're trying to avoid biased research sponsored by e-cig companies or suppliers - hopefully we've done that so far. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Of some old friends from the e-cig world. (with tongue planted firmly in cheek) Many of us **OV's** have fond although sometimes frustrated memories of these old friends. The M-401 has sadly passed and the RN-4075 is now defunct. While the 402 can still be found occasionally and the RN-4081 still has a small cult like following in the NJOY and Smokestik crowds.The KR808D-1 won the cigalike popularity contest and the 510, and the new kid on the block,the eGo connector won the MOD crowds love. But perhaps the saddest passing is the venerable and oft venerated DSE-801/BE-112/JOYE302's. Often hailed as the best compromise between the TH of the 510 and the clear taste of a 901,with the largest capacity,the now outdated 801 was beloved (and hated) by many. the BE-112 seems to be out of production and very few sellers still carry the 801/302's anymore. BUT I STILL HAVE A FEW! I haven't had to give in yet to these new punks:The gennies and RBA's and RDA's and and and... Well I only use 'em to taste new juices sometimes lol. They still work and taste great at ~5V. It really is great fun watching the progression of VAPING. **OV=original vaper(yes a sad play on the gangsters OG)

Thanks, I do have to give some credit to my Dad, rest his soul. When he was with us he taught me a lot about electronics and being a McGyver. LOL It was his nick name where he worked. He was an electroics enginer all his life. Has one pattend to his credit.

Short answer........ Oh Yeah.

I got to call that a noob move dude, you should have seen that one coming!!!!!and yes the uni is supposed to, but I can't confirm...

Got my "great deal" coil heads from Proetus today! Thanks again!

I can picture Carter faning the air in his office from here, lol

this is a link on how to direct drip, it should answer some of your questions.

I just noticed this poll LOL sorry... Best answer: Over Time Yes 5ml cost around $0.10-$1.50 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 10ml cost around $0.20-$2.50 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 30ml cost around $2.00-$4.00 Depending on how much flavoring gets used 50ml cost around $5.00-$8.00 Depending on how much flavoring gets used Flavoring and Nic are the biggest expense in DIY Wizard Labs has the best price on NIC and 8ml bottles of flavoring Good Plastic mixing bottles run about $0.79 50ml, $0.99 150ml, $1.29, 250ml (Hobbie Lobby) Plastic Drip Bottles range from $0.30-$0.50 (Bulk is less) (I use Glass mostly) Savings will very if you get stuff on sale when you can. Suggested Start-up items: Glass Beakers Volumetric Flasks Droppers Pipettes Syringes Rubber/Latex gloves

ExhaleVapors put these on sale last night. I was lucky to score 2 of them for a total of $46.64 including shipping! My first time away from various clearomizers. Got some good info from this thread, Thanks!

Cartomizers and (direct drip) atomizers are two similar yet different things. A cartomizer is basically an atomizer (heating coil at the bottom), but it has some synthetic cotton-like filler material in it. You have to saturate this filler with juice and vape. Many people like it for its convenience over direct dripping while just as many don't like it because they say you can taste the filler. I have never been able to like cartomizers as the juice doesn't wick fast enough down to the coil and I get lots of dry hits. An atomizer doesn't have the filler material and is just the metal cylinder with the heating coil at the bottom. Some have bridges and some don't. Personally I prefer the ones that don't have bridges these days. You can also take the bridge out of an atomizer to make it into a bridgeless version. The coils are all built into an atomizer so you don't have to buy anything other than a drip tip/mouth piece for it if it doesn't come with one pre-attached like those in the first link I gave you. The building of coils comes in the form of RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer). Those are different things altogether. Clear as mud?

Every bottle of juice that EC Blends ships out is made fresh to order, which is why they say that it takes 3 - 5 days to process. They really don't have any pre-steeped juices.