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These Rebuildables are NOT, and I repeat, are NOT for the beginner. If you're interested in building your own atomizers, the first thing you'll need is an OHM meter. I got mine at Madvapes, but COV and other places carry them too. These are handy for cartomiszers, atomizers, and RBA's alike. It will not be a waste of money if you later decide RBA's aren't for you at this time. Here is a direct link to the one I have. http://www.madvapes.com/cartomizer-and-atomizer-ohm-meter.html These will help prevent mod mishaps. It would be a shame to short out your expensive to you mod, when it could have been avoided with a 20 dollar bill. It's money well spent. Even the storebought plug and play cartos and attys sometimes arrive DOA or DyingOA, or the wrong OHMS marked, and worse yet, a faulty coil causing a short... being able to check your ohms before mounting onto the mod will spare many springs and mods both. Now that you're convinced you need an OHMs meter, and you are, in fact, checking out your cart, we can now get down to some basic RBA tutorial stuff. I am not a whiz, or a pro, but I do have a tad bit of experience, and am more than happy to try to share my journey with you., until a Pro does come along and hopefully takes over. (please!).

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Synther made a lot of good points. The manual button does give you more control. However.... Analogs and E-Cigarettes are similar in the "cigarette" part of the name only. After that, its apples and oranges all the way. Drawing on an e-cig utilizes a different technique, and requires a bit of practice. This is a big reason a lot of people return to smoking....they just do not get the hang of it, and give up before they even start. (Don't get scared just yet...this is something you will get accustomed to after a couple days, and will become practically second-nature after that.) There are some good articles on this, and "the other forum" regarding the proper inhalation technique required for vaping. The articles cover the spectrum of drawing vapor on both a manual as well as an automatic battery. In short, it is up to the end user, and the use of proper inhalation technique that make all the difference in the world.

...and from Hoosier E-Cig: CE2 style DCT tank cartomizers: Resistance: 1.5ohm Dual Coil CE2 DCT - $0.40 $1.99 1 $1.99 HEC054-2 CE2 style DCT tank cartomizers Resistance: 2.0ohm Dual Coil CE2 DCT - $0.40 $1.99 1 $1.99 HEC054-2 CE2 style DCT tank cartomizers Resistance: 3.0ohm Single coil CE2 DCT $1.59 3 $4.77 Subtotal: $8.75 Discount(s): $0.44 Taxes: $0.00 Shipping: $4.00 TOTAL: $12.31

...and from VapeLite: 1 x Vision eGo Spinner 1300mAh Variable Volt Battery, White (visiontwistwhite) = $21.00 1 x 510 USB BATTERY CHARGER (510 USB BATTERY CHARGER) = $2.99 3 x BOGE BLACK PLASTIC DRIP TIP FOR F16 (510/901/KR808D PLASTIC DRIP TIP) = $5.97 1 x USB WALL CHARGER (USB WALL CHARGER) = $2.50 1 x DK-TAB FLAVOR 18MG (5 PACK) (DKTAB18MG) = $10.00 1 x RY4 TOBACCO FLAVOR 18MG (5 PACK) (RY4 TOBACCO FLAVOR 18MG (5 PACK)) = $10.00 ------------------------------ ------------------------ Sub-Total: $52.46 United States Postal Service (First Class Mail Domestic Only): $3.00 Total: $55.46

If you keep this up Uma, I see a sticky in your future!

I have given some of these away and have newer ones that aren't shown.

My two best buddies Poldiac with Gemini RBA, and Roller with Kick extension and Mini DID

I've tried Bobas on 32g,30g,and 28g but only with 400 mesh. All of which aren't nearly as good as a carto tank. You're right Bobas would probably shine on the spheroid. Holding off on the spheroid till I get my pipe.

Wrapping a coil 101: This is just my experience of wrapping coils. I am a new RBA user at this point. So take this step with a grain of salt. I also highly recommend a few hours dedicated to watching YouTube videos. Now then, at this point you should be ready to wrap your coil. By now you have cleaned your device, oxidized your wick, as well as annealed your wire. There are many ways to do this. Here are some very generic guidelines: 1. Your coil should be snug on your wick but: (A) not digging in aka too tight or ( no large gaps between the coil and wick aka too loose. 2. You should be able to remove your wick after the coil is wrapped but it should not fall out on its own. 3. You want all coil wraps evenly spaced. 4. You probably don't want to remove excess wire until you are sure the coil is performing like you want. 5. Once wrapped you need to fire the coil by itself, no wick, with rapid sort bursts to make sure that all wraps glow evenly. This also gives the coil more strength. Now to wrap. I've used two methods so far. Free hand and a drill bit. Free hand is simple. Once your wick is in the hole just start at the base. You will need to hold one end down with your finger while bringing the wire around the negative screw and wick. Hold a little tension on the wire as you screw down the negative. This will free up that hand. Now I just wrap the coil on the wick going counter clockwise up the wick. Depending on whatever gauge your using determines your wraps. With 32 I make 4 or 5 giving a 1.4 to 1.7 ohm coil. Once you're at the top I wrap it around the positive post and run the nut down. After your top nut is down space the coils evenly. To use a drill bit find whatever size fits into the wickhole. You will want the biggest that will go into it. Now just wrap your wire around the smooth part of the bit. Your wrap count should be the same. Once its wrapped insert the bit into the wick hole threads down. Attach your positive and negative. Voila here's your coil. Wrapping a good coil is far from getting an rba running well. I can wrap a beautiful coil all day long but if you are covered in hotspots you may as well have no coil. I hope this helps someone and this part of the build is much easier shown in video or pictures vs written text. Happy vaping!

Thank you MSE! That was very nice. You have a knack for explaining! I'm wishing you had done the oxidizing post. If you don't mind, go ahead and do the next step. You're on a roll! Jeffb, I've only burnt myself once, trying to beat the cooling effect. Like MSE said, it cools quite fast! edited to say: I'm full and sleepy, can't form words right now, so will come back tomorrow (hopefully) to help. Niters all.

Just got some juice from heathers heavenly vapes. $13 for 30ml is a great price. Not to mention their juice is awesome.

Annealing is about the most straight forward aspect of the build process after the cleaning. Annealing is simply the heat treatment of the kanthal to allow easier use of the wire. All wire that we use is wrapped around a spool. Anyone who has ever messed with any wire knows that wire has "memory" and that it will try to maintain that shape of the spool. Your entire goal with this step is to straighten and soften the wire to allow you, the end user, to wrap it without the memory effect. To anneal my kanthal I simply cut a section of wire typically around 4-5". Once the piece is cut I simply take a regular lighter and slowly heat it until it glows. As you do this you will physically see the wire relax as the flame heats it. Once you've heated the wire just run it through your thumb and index finger to straighten it out. At this point any memory the wire previously had is gone. You are now ready to wrap your coil. I now will pass the rba torch back to Uma for the coil wrapping step. I could try but as I'm still a fairly new rba user I will let her take it from here! Happy vaping!

haha, not at all psychic! I read your plea, in a thread, for a tutorial. I just hope this will come out clear, and not confusing. Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'm going to take a break, cook dinner, and when I come back, we'll talk about annealing the coil wire.

Oxidizing: The first step towards setting the RBA up to vape, is to oxidize the Mesh. Some vapers like to first boil the mesh, change the water, boil again, to remove any residue. Others, like me, just like to dive in and get the show started, so let's get started. Torch: One like the Chef's torches work great. The ones with Blue flame. (propane). You don't want a huge torch, or too hot of a torch, just a nice consistent blue flame torch. Gas Stove: If you have a gas stove, use it! It takes less time, and provides the blue flame. Hold the mesh in a set of pliers, and run your torch over the mesh, lingering in each spot until it turns a nice orange. Torch the entire mesh, both sides, and all edges. In your mind, divide the mesh up in a grid pattern, and be sure to torch every grid, on both sides. Notice how the frayed edges really light up lol. Let it cool enough to handle (about 5 seconds if that long). Fold over an edge (an edge of the long side) and crease it tight, like a piece of binder paper. Straighten out a medium sized paper clip and lay that on the non-creased edge. Roll the paperclip towards the creased edge. This makes sure there are no frayed edges at the end of the rolling. Roll it between your fingers, pressing from middle to end, to make a longer skinny noodle. Check for fit. If it's too skinny, just roll it in the opposite direction and it will expand instead of shrink. Once it fits inside the wick hole, not touching the edges of the hole, you are ready to optionally cut the end of the wick that goes inside the juice tank at a 45% angle, to help the juice find it's way up your wick's straw. After cutting, put it back onto the paperclip, and re torch the newly cut end. (frays). Optional next step: Stiffening the wick. With a bowl of distilled (preferably) water nearby, torch the rolled wick and when it's glowing hot, dunk it immediately into the bowl of water. Roll the wet wick onto a paper towel, to wisk out the moisture. Repeat. Do this about 3 times in total. (I do this step all the time, because I live on a very bumpy road and don't like "flex" in my wick). Optional next after next step: Seasoning the wick. With paperclip still inserted, drip your wick with e-juice. Light the wet wick on fire with your old bic lighter. Let the fire die naturally. Repeat for a total of about 3 times. (lucky number 3 eh). This seasoning step helps the juice to enter the inner depths of the wick, which will enhance the wicking, which is helpful if you're a chain vaper. It also helps the vape taste better if you use your preferred flavor. (less time will be spent trying to break in the flavor) The more wicks you oxidize and roll, the more faster it gets. It takes longer time to read about it, than it does to actually get up there and do it. It's also easier to do than it is to try to picture it being done. There are quite a few different video's out there, and they all have their own way. I'm writing the way that works best, so far, for me and for many many others like me. It's really very simple, and doesn't take that long to do. You'll be up and rolling in no time.

Uma. You must be psychic.I almost PMed you yesterday evening to ask if you thought a new thread about RBA setup and maintenance is something you might wanna take the helm of, 'cause I know from your previous posts that if anyone here knows about the mechanics of RBAs, it's you. Glad you started this thread. I look forward to learning something new. Rixter

i am a newbie, been vaping for a month today! i got an egoC twist 1000mAh (big, long lasting battery)and a couple clearomizers. i was actually looking for something that resembled analogs in feel, look, and taste as well, but i was talked into the kit i bought. i have to say, i do not regret the purchase one bit. i enjoy the convinience, just fill it up, charge it for a couple hours, and im vaping the day away. theres a ton of flavors out there, you can add menthol to any taste u like. i hope u find something that fits your taste and lifestyle!

If you are quite familiar with the eCig products & know them like the back of your hand, & if you have a nice stock pile of plug and play attys or cartos on hand already, then read on. This might be for you. These Rebuildables are NOT, and I repeat, are NOT for the beginner. This statement should have been set in stone in the opening post. My bad. (edit! Sweet! It let me edit it into the opening post). Which leads me to my next statement... I am a poster who doesn't notice typo's and the such, until AFTER I've posted. So, be sure to read further down the line and double check for corrections and whatnot. I hope somebody else takes over. I really do. Just to spare YOU, the poor reader with all these new Learning Curves ahead of you. My apologies, in advance, for any backtracking that's sure to follow.

Genesis Attys. The genny (for short), uses a Stainless Steel (SS for short) woven mesh wire. It's important to use either the Food grade or the Kitchen grade type of wire, called #304 or #316. The sizes we use mostly, to date, are #325, #400, #500. The higher the number, the more strands of wire there are in each square inch. The more strands of wire there is, the better wicking there is... to a degree. Some vapers have had success with #600, but most of us seem happy in the 400 range. The type of juice you use, of course, as well as how you yourself roll the mesh, comes into play as to what your preference will be. Many retailers will include a sample of 325 and a 400 in your atomizer order, and many do not. Some Vendors will sell the mesh and wire separately. When you get them, you can tell which one is which, by holding it up to the light (like your monitor). The more light that shines through, the lower the count of threads there is. Just like a sheets or towels. McMaster and Carr and The Mesh Companies are two popular mesh stores. I bought mine here: http://themeshcompany.com/acatalog/25-micron-super-fine-mesh.html There are other places too, of course. The ones I bought were large sheets, which will last me for forever. A wick will last over 6 months, and we use so little of it to make our wicks. (2mm x 3mm more or less, depending on your style, and on the size of your atomizer's wick hole) You will "oxidize" your mesh after it arrives. This will be covered later. The wire you will need is A1 grade, Kanthal. (Nichochrome is okay, too, but I am not familiar with it, so I leave it for others to write about). The popular gauges are #32, #30, and #28. The lower the number, the thicker the wire. The most popular to start with, is #32. The #32 gauge is the gauge that most often comes with the atomizer, if the atomizer comes with wire. The Resistance changes with the size (gauge) of the wire. Save the #30 and the #28 for when you are more comfortable and experienced, and have more research under your belt. You will "anneal" your wire, after it arrives and you're ready to wrap your coil. This will be covered later. As soon as your Atomizer arrives, wash it in hot soapy water, to remove any production machine oils. Rinse thoroughly, and dry even more thoroughly. Dry it over night. Make sure the "center post's TUBE" is completely dry too Take a hair dryer to it if you have to. After it's setup and you've been using it, a nice rinse with EverClear (vodka), will clean it just fine, with occasional hot baths as needed. Everclear dries fast, evaporates nicely, and is also a germ killer.

GaGa, normally it's the battery life that's the turn off. I have found some batteries that are really descent from Smokeless Image and is called the Volt. I have the 78mm batts and I'm getting 3 to 4 hours of vaping which is not bad for a cig look-a-like. I believe they are 320mah

http://www.smoktek.com/VAMO-Variable-Power-VV-APV-Rev2--Chrome_p_534.html

Want! Does anybody know of a resale link for this?

Here are some of the wood mods I have made. From Left to Right A variable voltage dual 18650's A 3.7 volt with a 16340 A variable voltage dual 10440's My Stealth mod with a 10440 My big box with variable voltage dual 18650's and a pass thru function Another 3.7 volt 16340 And a Top Feeder with variable voltage and dual 18350's Not Pictured are A Puck variant, 2 1000mah ego's, and 2 1000mah twists. Lately I find myself reaching for the far left one the most running with a Smoktek R tank but who knows what the future might bring.

Bought a few days ago but awaiting my new AGA-T+, plus some diy supplies...

As far as nicotine goes, even a light cigarette gives you a lot of nic if you smoke a pack and a half a day. To get at least that much nic from vaping you could probably use 18mg but 12mg is close enough. It all depends on how often you vape. If you vape more than you used to smoke then 12mg is plenty. If not or you feel like you need a little bit more then get 18mg. Same goes with heavy smokers who smoke stronger cigs. They might want 24mg to start out with or 18mg. Anything above 24mg is entering an unsafe zone and 18mg is medium high.

I like to buy 0mg of the same (this month's favorite whatever that may be) flavor that I vape a lot of. That makes it so much easier to dilute my regular 18mg flavor down even more as wanted/needed. Certain delivery systems are stronger than others, such as the RBA's, and being able to dilute the nic without loosing flavor is priceless in my book. 0mg has it's merits

That's awesome! Gotta love the ingenuity.

That looks really nice. I am looking for a new mod myself

After going back and tasting analogs after being smoke free for this long, i hardly want to replicate something that tastes that bad anyways